My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

[Joakim]

Rocket:

I noticed the same as Art. G20 should be the first GCode in the file.

Art:
It seems that the first G0 move in the GCode is a combines safe Z move and move to start.
I think it would be safer to first move to safe Z in one G0 move and then to start position X and Y in the next G0 move.
The combined move could drag the tool over the work if Z was at 0 (just zeroed).

Maybe I am wrong as I try to avoid writing GCodes...

[ArtF]

Joakim:

  No, your entirely correct, though it hasnt bitten anyone by report, I will change that for next release.
(I too tend to avoid writing code, but I should have known betetr than that!. :)

Thx for the observation.
Art

[ArtF]

Fixed for next release, file will begin with a G0Z"safeZ" for safety..

G43H7 should already be gone as of last release. It was an bad .pst file.

Thx
Art

[Rocket]

Art,

My g code all shows the G43H7

My Gearotic ver. is: 2.30140 is that the latest?

If not how do I get the latest?

Rocket

[ArtF]

Rocket:
 
  Current version is 2.30150


  You can update by just redownload the link under Development
version and running the install, you never have to uninstall , just run
the setup and it will update..

  The initial rise to safeZ isnt yet out, but the G43 will go away when you update.

Art

[Rocket]

Art,

I have attached a G code file of a gear I made in
Gearotic.

Please insert the proper g code at the top so
I can avoid the dreaded "carve" line to where the
gear should start cutting.

Once I see how you have done it, I can do it to all
my gears generated by Gearotic.

Thanks.  RR

[ArtF]

Just change your files to look like this one at the top

Art

[Rocket]

I am sorry I messed up again.

Please take attached file and fix so it
will lift up prior to cutting.

Also need G20 ( for inches, is that right)

Thanks........I am almost there..........first good gear coming soon
Now using Universal g code sender, much better than Carbide Motion.

Thanks.........so much

RR

[ArtF]

G20 just tells your machine its an inch file, so you can just add G20 as the first line.
And after it, add a move to raise the Z, so the two lines you add , as first and second line is

G20
G0Z.25


Any text editor will do, its just a text file.

Art

[Rocket]

Art,

Thanks to you we are making great progress, see attachment.

I am still getting the "line" to start job being cut. 
I guess I don't get why.

Can you fix the g code in the attachment to stop that from happening?

This is the best so far.....I had to redo all bolts and nuts....realign and tighten belts...
Working well now...

I am now using only Gearotic and Universal G code sender....only 13 minutes to cut...
rough and needs some fine tuning....

Rocket

[ArtF]

Rocket:

  Well done.

I think your at the point you need to edit the files yourself and test
to see why its dragging on the material.

  Here's the first few lines of your file..

( No Prolog Set )( GCode Objects Begin. )
( Object Spur20 Unv gcode and gearotic Begins )
G20
G0Z0.25
(  Shaft Hole path - Inside Profile )
( Tool --: EndmillInch1-E-R0.05-T0.0-F0.0 posted as T5 )
M5
M6 T5
M3 S1750
G1 Z-0.050  F50

  Any lines with " ( or )" are comments, ignore them
G20 means enter imperial mode, it should be first
G0Z0.25 means raise Z to .25 ( so it shouldn't be dragging.. )
M5 means to turn off the spindle had it been on..
M6T5 is a toolchange to tool #5, ignored by your machine..
M3 S1750 is turn on spidnle set to speed of 1750..

G1 Z-0.050  F50  , and this line is dropping back down..
G1 X5.724  Y5.512  F100  //and this is moving to center, dragging through  the material,

The obvious solution then, is to not drop until you
move to center..

so the two lines above should be..

G1 X5.724  Y5.512  F100  /move to center FIRST,while still in the air
G1 Z-0.050  F50  , and then dropping back down to start cutting.

That will fix your trouble.

Art

[ArtF]

Kirk:

Thanks for kicking in, I kinda figured it was more misunderstanding than anything. Everything we
do comes in various levels of quality and ones mans treasure is anothers junk. Its all relative.

  Sounds to me like its doing OK now, 10 minutes on his last gear sounds much better than the original 2 hours. :)

Art

[Mooselake]

You must have posted while I was removing my post, Art.  I somehow (oldtimers?) failed to read the last page of posts, went over and read through Rockets posts on the SO forum (where he got good advice but also a bit of encounter with the metric and open source only crowd), then came back here and removed the post.  Whoops.  I'll replace the gist of it, plus add a little.

I've corresponded off and on with Ed Ford, the SO3 developer since his original KS no version number ShapeOKO, when I emailed him about problems he was having with a low budget spindle that we both had.  He's a good guy.  Never had any version of SO, or even seen one, but by all reports they're pretty decent.

I was poking through the G2.0 options, and see there's a button to set prolog and epilog code there.  Wouldn't that be better than editing each file?

Rocket posted a gcode file there that started with

Code: Select all

( No Prolog Set )( GCode Objects Begin. ) 
( Object Genesis Clock Third Wheel Begins ) 
G0 X3.785  Y3.689  Z0.250  A0.000  
(  Shaft Hole path - Inside Profile ) 

Is that A0.000 a bug, or a feature?

I pulled out and skimmed through my Zenbot notebook from 2010, brought back memories of days when it would have been more fun to have pulled out my fingernails with a dull pair of pliers...

Good Luck, Rocket!  Looks like you're off to a good start.  Just be careful, you can find yourself eating up even more of that elusive free time after you discover 3D printers and laser cutters.  Gearotic does a great job with both of them.  Just say no :)

And wasn't that first gear something like 10 hours and not two?  Rocket, are you still using that 1/16" endmill?

Kirk

[ArtF]

Kirk:

  The default post puts out an A coordinate just in case, but the defaultmill.pst can be configured to change that. Yes, Epilog and Prolog are the easiest way....but I figured Id wait till he was a bit more familiar
before going there. :)

Art

[Rocket]

To all who have helped me....a sincere thank you.

What follows is an email that I sent today to Ed Ford at Carbide 3 (Shapeoko)

[font=Verdana]Ed, and the other members of the Carbide 3 team,
This is Richard Rizzolo in West Palm Beach, Fl.

I wish I could do this in person, but that is not possible so I will use email.

Ed, I am sitting here with my foot inserted into my mouth, it is choking me.
(I wear a size 13 shoe).  Next I will eat a bowl of crow.

I sincerely apologize for the abusive email that I sent to you and your partners.
I am truly sorry.  There is no excuse for that behavior.

I am one of those guys who loves to tackle large problems and projects.  So about
one month ago I noticed these wood gear clocks online, I said wow, I think I will
build a few of those.

Now once I decide on something, I expect to accomplish the mission faster than any other
human on this earth (very stupid).  So, when things did not come together quickly enough
for me, I flipped my lid.  I wanted to learn all the stuff you guys know in a few days?(stupid).

Again, I am sorry, please pass this along to all your partners.
You were dead right about the adjustments to the Shapeoko 3.

After doing exactly as you said, it works 1000% better.

I made the gear below in Gearotic, created a tool path in Gearotic, and then used Universal
G code  Sender to the Shapeoko.

5/8 inch plywood, .25 end mill, 15 passes, and Voila.

Still a little rough, but my greatest job in 3 weeks of trying tons of software and files.

Still have a problem with some of the g code, as to placement and cutting a line
Enroute to what should be the first real cut. 

I installed limit switches, but now must figure out how to make them work with
Universal g code Sender.


Sorry for my behavior

Richard
[/font]