Orange Clockwork Ticker
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
Ignore my last question: I figured out how to convert mm to inches in Cut2D desktop.
I assume I can change your bottom plate to my own "hub" from
one of my spinning wheels, is that correct? I guess I would have to tinker
with spring size and weights to achieve proper wheel spin. Do you think
your set up would drive one of my two wheel spinners with a 40 inch diameter and 12 vanes
on each wheel?
Richard
Ignore my last question: I figured out how to convert mm to inches in Cut2D desktop.
I assume I can change your bottom plate to my own "hub" from
one of my spinning wheels, is that correct? I guess I would have to tinker
with spring size and weights to achieve proper wheel spin. Do you think
your set up would drive one of my two wheel spinners with a 40 inch diameter and 12 vanes
on each wheel?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Richard:
I suspect it would, you might have to remove 4 of the pins, so it really has a fair amount of kick.. always
hard to say though without trying it..
Art
I suspect it would, you might have to remove 4 of the pins, so it really has a fair amount of kick.. always
hard to say though without trying it..
Art
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Thanks Bob that what I was thinking.
Dan
Dan
BobL wrote: Dan;
The more pins you have the slower it rotates, in other words the less of a kick it gets between pins.
Cheers
Bob
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
In the files you posted you refer to top and bottom (in the jpg pictures).
Is the top the front wheel and the bottom the back wheel?
Richard
In the files you posted you refer to top and bottom (in the jpg pictures).
Is the top the front wheel and the bottom the back wheel?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
In the photo below that you named spool.jpg.
Is that 3 pieces of wood glued together?
Richard
In the photo below that you named spool.jpg.
Is that 3 pieces of wood glued together?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Hi Richard:
YEs, I refer to top as the front rotating panel, and bottom as the rear. The spool is actually 2 pieces. The main spool has a ring
machined into it, and a second ring was pocketed to fit into the main spools ring, together they make the takeup spool 3/4"
thick to hold the spring as it winds on. That way I didnt have to glue on the second half of the ring, I justr pushed it into the machined
ring and glued it..
Art
YEs, I refer to top as the front rotating panel, and bottom as the rear. The spool is actually 2 pieces. The main spool has a ring
machined into it, and a second ring was pocketed to fit into the main spools ring, together they make the takeup spool 3/4"
thick to hold the spring as it winds on. That way I didnt have to glue on the second half of the ring, I justr pushed it into the machined
ring and glued it..
Art
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
What is the length of the eight brass pins?
Richard
What is the length of the eight brass pins?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Richard:
They extend to 3/4 inch out of the spool, and press through to the other side
of it flush
Art
They extend to 3/4 inch out of the spool, and press through to the other side
of it flush
Art
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
Sorry to bother you so much.
Why does the ratchet latch have to be notch out?
I cannot see any dimensions for positioning of magnet on the crescent bar?
Do I just position the magnets the best I can as per photos?
RR
Sorry to bother you so much.
Why does the ratchet latch have to be notch out?
I cannot see any dimensions for positioning of magnet on the crescent bar?
Do I just position the magnets the best I can as per photos?
RR
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
Why does the RatchetLatch.dxf look different than
the latch(3).jpg?
Richard
Why does the RatchetLatch.dxf look different than
the latch(3).jpg?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Hi Richard:
The shape of the latch is one of those things that I modified as I built it.
I decided to make it quite thick, and the ring spool doesnt match the hight
of the crescent shaped holers, there is about 1/4" difference, so the ratchet
trigger is nothed out to follow around the curve of the spool disk when its
engaged. This keep the latch body from hitting the disk.
The magnet I use as a spring is about 1/2" from he shaft of the latch,
you can vary this to any confortable spot, but approx. 1/2 inch from
the shaft allows it to make a good spring for the distance it will have to swing
outward when pushed. The only importance to the distance is that the magnet
still have enough power at that point to swing it back in..
The other magnet I just used as a glide to lower friction on the latch
as it swings in and out. The Latch and the toggle you can expect to be a
bit different from the drawings as I modified them slightly as I built it.
Notching the trigger toggle for the bar magnet is a bit of a job, as youll find
as you try it.. I ended up holding mine on my router and running a groove in it,
then expoxying a magnet into the groove.
Art
The shape of the latch is one of those things that I modified as I built it.
I decided to make it quite thick, and the ring spool doesnt match the hight
of the crescent shaped holers, there is about 1/4" difference, so the ratchet
trigger is nothed out to follow around the curve of the spool disk when its
engaged. This keep the latch body from hitting the disk.
The magnet I use as a spring is about 1/2" from he shaft of the latch,
you can vary this to any confortable spot, but approx. 1/2 inch from
the shaft allows it to make a good spring for the distance it will have to swing
outward when pushed. The only importance to the distance is that the magnet
still have enough power at that point to swing it back in..
The other magnet I just used as a glide to lower friction on the latch
as it swings in and out. The Latch and the toggle you can expect to be a
bit different from the drawings as I modified them slightly as I built it.
Notching the trigger toggle for the bar magnet is a bit of a job, as youll find
as you try it.. I ended up holding mine on my router and running a groove in it,
then expoxying a magnet into the groove.
Art
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Art,
Did you have to try many different types and strengths
of magnets before you hit on the right combination?
Richard
Did you have to try many different types and strengths
of magnets before you hit on the right combination?
Richard
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Richard:
No, you ll find the neodyniums are pretty good, I used 1/4" round x 1/4long cyclidrical ones, and a few 1/2" x 1/8 or so round discs.
I got mine at Lee Valley, but ebay'd be an easy spot to get a bunch..
Art
No, you ll find the neodyniums are pretty good, I used 1/4" round x 1/4long cyclidrical ones, and a few 1/2" x 1/8 or so round discs.
I got mine at Lee Valley, but ebay'd be an easy spot to get a bunch..
Art
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
Cool design. I've spent hours watching David C. Roy's stuff spinning around and every time I think I'm close to figuring out how to do it something doesn't quite work. I'll have to try this out, Art.
Also - could another way of slowing or speeding it up be by changing the sizes of the wheels? Say a larger pinned disk and a smaller spring wheel?
Dan
Also - could another way of slowing or speeding it up be by changing the sizes of the wheels? Say a larger pinned disk and a smaller spring wheel?
Dan
Re: Orange Clockwork Ticker
And one other quick thought/question that might make creating this even simpler... it seems that the little diamond shaped ratchet as well as the larger arm would be perfect things to 3D print. Hmmmmm
I built a small and dirt cheap 3D printer (~$175) that has been great in the shop. It has made parts for a CNC build as well as other odds and ends. It might play really well with creating kinetic art projects.
Dan
I built a small and dirt cheap 3D printer (~$175) that has been great in the shop. It has made parts for a CNC build as well as other odds and ends. It might play really well with creating kinetic art projects.
Dan
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests