My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

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Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

Ya-Nvr-No wrote: This is where Art is telling you to place the Code
you seem to not be seeing the first move that puts you in position for the first feed move down.

( No Prolog Set )( GCode Objects Begin. )
( Object Ratchet Begins )
G20 (Imperial Mode)
G0 X3.445  Y3.307  Z0.250  A0.000  (this is a rapid move to the center 1/4" above part face)
(  Shaft Hole path - Inside Profile )
( Tool --: EndmillInch-E-R0.13-T0.0-F0.0 posted as T5 )
M5
M6 T5
M3 S1750
G1 Z-0.050  F20.00
G1 X3.441  Y3.307  F50.00  
G1 X3.438  Y3.308  
I have done that about 15 times and it does not work.
For some reason it is ignoring the line: G0 X3.445  Y3.307  Z0.250  A0.000
Ya-Nvr-No
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Ya-Nvr-No »

what does not make sense is it works by the time it sees a G1 Feed move.  ???

Might try rearranging the order

G20 (Imperial Mode)
M5
M6 T5
M3 S1750
G0 X3.445  Y3.307  Z0.250  A0.000
G1 Z-0.050  F20.00

if the above code does not work I would find a new home for that machine ASAP
and I would suspect that controller has other issues.
You don't get any more basic than what Art has provided.

Edit addition: In over 40 years I've never seen a controller do that.

Last edited by Ya-Nvr-No on Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Joakim
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Joakim »

Shapeoko is based on GRBL motion controller and as I understand it, GRBL only works with 3 axis (X, Y and Z).

Code: Select all

G0 X3.445  Y3.307  Z0.250  A0.000
Could be ignored because the A0.000 coordinate is not supported.
I would try to delete the A0.000 part of G0 and follow Arts suggestions.

Just a thought.

Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

Art

I in no way would question anything you say about any of this,
I would very happy if I know 2% of what you know in the next few years....

I just sent this same .tap file to Carbide 3 support team and asked them why?????

I just made this gear (.jpg pic attached)
with that same file, All I did was remove the - (minus sign) from the Z line.

The attached file is the file I used to  makee this gear with.....
I have no idea.....maybe Carbide 3 (Shapeoko guys) can answer us????

I am smart enough to know when I am dealing with smart people!

Thank you..................I know that I have been a pain in the ass........

r



Attachments
4-12-2016 920AM gear from Gearotic.jpg

[The extension has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]

Ya-Nvr-No
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Ya-Nvr-No »

I think that's a good possibility Joakim Hjort  ;)
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by ArtF »

Rocket:

   I think Joakim has a very good idea. It may be your machine
is ignoring the line because it has an A on it. I never thought of that.
Remove the A 0.0 from that first line.. See if it makes a difference...

 If it does fix it, I can show you how to tell gearotic not to put it out.

Art
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by ArtF »

Rocket:

I can see where changing that line helped, but it also makes your first pass in the air , then drops double the amount
for the true  first cut. So I do think its ignoring that line. Lets focus on that line alone till we find it.

Remove the A.. see what it does.. we'll go from there..

Art
BillM
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by BillM »

Rocket

I don't know what your background is or your experience with programming.  I see from your earliest posts on this subject that you did successfully install a turbo charger and build a brick pizza oven.  You obviously like challenging projects.

My backgound is electrical engineering, most of my career involved computer programming. I've been retired since 2007.  Last August I had the opportunity to work alongside a clock repairer on an 1860's tower clock.   I knew little or nothing about clocks...so I began searching for info on clock repair.

In September 2014, there was an exhibit from the Royal Maritime Museum that included working replicas of John Harrisons first three sea clocks and a display version replica of his winning chronometer.  When I found out that the description of the clock along with diagrams had been published by the Royal Astronomer in the late 1700's, I figured out how to download images of that document.   The challenge was to figure out the workings of the chronometer. That's when I found out that I knew little or nothing about gears or general clock theory.

Terms such as addendum, dedendum, diametric pitch, module, etc were greek to me.  I found online free resources to learn more about gear design, gear theory.   I also found a free document on Horology to understand the theory behind clock designs.  There were also good, free online descriptions of escapements.  If you want to build clocks you really need to understand what/how they work.

In January this year I decided to invest in Gearotics. It takes time/patience to explore the features of any software product.  The online videos, documentation, and the gear head forum have been a great help.

Since January, I've been able to build a simulation of a chronometer and the tower clock.  I tend to look at any software package a tool that needs to be mastered in order to know what its features/ limits are.   I think at this point I've pushed the simulation modeling of Gearotics capabilities pretty far.

I thought about building a wooden gear clock.  I too am more interested in clocks rather than tickers.  I decided that to build a wooden clock I'd be better off buying a kit rather than purchasing all of the equipment needed to build one from scratch ...I have a table saw, small drill press, and hand tools....that's it.  I may still try to build one using hand tools.

I have begun learning about Gcode to better understand the issues being raised in this thread (even though the equipment costs are outside of my retirement budget).  

Gcode is a programming language and if I ever do invest in a machine I have already learned that understanding the features/limits of a particular CNC machine and of Gcode would be crucial to creating good outputs...whether it be gears, escapements, etc.   If you don't understand what commands you are sending to a machine and what the machine expects then it will be impossible to accurately control it.   If you modify code generated by a computer program, there is always a possibility that you may be creating problems rather than solving them.

I think talking with the CNC machine manufacturer is the right thing to do.  I would suggest creating a simple Gcode program, perhaps machine a square which if it doesn't work, then the manufacturer have to figure out why.

Bill
Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

ArtF wrote: Rocket:

I can see where changing that line helped, but it also makes your first pass in the air , then drops double the amount
for the true  first cut. So I do think its ignoring that line. Lets focus on that line alone till we find it.

Remove the A.. see what it does.. we'll go from there..

Art
Yes...............So i just trick the job and add few tenths of an inch to the material so
the cut goes all the way through.....I know that is cheating but it gets me buy for now....
Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

aawfm wrote: Rocket

I don't know what your background is or your experience with programming.  I see from your earliest posts on this subject that you did successfully install a turbo charger and build a brick pizza oven.  You obviously like challenging projects.

My backgound is electrical engineering, most of my career involved computer programming. I've been retired since 2007.  Last August I had the opportunity to work alongside a clock repairer on an 1860's tower clock.   I knew little or nothing about clocks...so I began searching for info on clock repair.

In September 2014, there was an exhibit from the Royal Maritime Museum that included working replicas of John Harrisons first three sea clocks and a display version replica of his winning chronometer.  When I found out that the description of the clock along with diagrams had been published by the Royal Astronomer in the late 1700's, I figured out how to download images of that document.   The challenge was to figure out the workings of the chronometer. That's when I found out that I knew little or nothing about gears or general clock theory.

Terms such as addendum, dedendum, diametric pitch, module, etc were greek to me.  I found online free resources to learn more about gear design, gear theory.   I also found a free document on Horology to understand the theory behind clock designs.  There were also good, free online descriptions of escapements.  If you want to build clocks you really need to understand what/how they work.

In January this year I decided to invest in Gearotics. It takes time/patience to explore the features of any software product.  The online videos, documentation, and the gear head forum have been a great help.

Since January, I've been able to build a simulation of a chronometer and the tower clock.  I tend to look at any software package a tool that needs to be mastered in order to know what its features/ limits are.   I think at this point I've pushed the simulation modeling of Gearotics capabilities pretty far.

I thought about building a wooden gear clock.  I too am more interested in clocks rather than tickers.  I decided that to build a wooden clock I'd be better off buying a kit rather than purchasing all of the equipment needed to build one from scratch ...I have a table saw, small drill press, and hand tools....that's it.  I may still try to build one using hand tools.

I have begun learning about Gcode to better understand the issues being raised in this thread (even though the equipment costs are outside of my retirement budget).  

Gcode is a programming language and if I ever do invest in a machine I have already learned that understanding the features/limits of a particular CNC machine and of Gcode would be crucial to creating good outputs...whether it be gears, escapements, etc.   If you don't understand what commands you are sending to a machine and what the machine expects then it will be impossible to accurately control it.   If you modify code generated by a computer program, there is always a possibility that you may be creating problems rather than solving them.

I think talking with the CNC machine manufacturer is the right thing to do.  I would suggest creating a simple Gcode program, perhaps machine a square which if it doesn't work, then the manufacturer have to figure out why.

Bill
Thanks....I also build home computers...for friends and myself...

If you look at my posts from today...you will see I am making some very good gears
with Gearotics....but you are right....I have a long way to go...before I get a clock up and running.

I have purchase some .dxf files of the Simplicity clock from Clayton Boyer.
The files are workable in a CAD program (to separate each part) from the total drawing.

Then import into Cut 2D Desktop, and create G-code.....

But, I want to use Art's software (Gearotic) to make the gears.....
the other parts I can make with Cut 2D.

RR
BillM
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by BillM »

Rocket

As a challenge in working with Gearotics you might want to see if with the Boyer Genesis model that you can create the gears in Gearotics.  I tried it and based on the Boyer website's photo of the clock, your photo of the hour gear from the design print (to guess approximate gear size),and general clock theory,  I was able to come up with a Gearotics version.

I've also looked at the online photo of Simplicity and as a challenge in clock gearing I may try to figuring out how to create a Gearotics version.

I will not publish either of these models on the forum since the exact design is owned by Boyer.

It's the challenge and thrill of learning new things, gaining new skills that is important to me.    As one old TV commercial stated....Life is a journey  enjoy the ride.

Bill
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by ArtF »

Bill:

 You can also print the gear on paper at 1:1 size for cutting on a scroll saw, Ive seen many tickers and clocks made by scrollsaw,
while I prefer CNC and tickers, never underestimate the hands of a person who knows how to use a scrollsaw, with patience you can match ( clockwise) anythign done on cnc.. its mostly 2d work. You just print on your laser printer, stick it on wood, and cut
the object.. theyll fit great..

Art
Ya-Nvr-No
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Ya-Nvr-No »

When I was working as a Toolmaker, we used the band saw to cut very close to a line then use a power stroking reciprocating file to clean any high points off and smooth out the profiles. So the better the template and line the better the results. Tedious work but very rewarding to see the results with minimum tools. Now I cant see the damn lines without my Optivisor.  :'(
Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

I bought a scroll saw at the onset of this project about one month ago.

I do not have the patience to make a 60 tooth gear with that machine...
I love the computer side of this adventure and will try and make the gears
as close as possible to my dxf files I bought from Boyer.....

I like Art's program, it makes great gears....

I enjoy the challenge of figuring it all out...once that is gone, I sometimes
lose interest...

RR
Rocket
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Re: My new Shapeoko 3 is it just me?

Post by Rocket »

ArtF wrote: Rocket:

I can see where changing that line helped, but it also makes your first pass in the air , then drops double the amount
for the true  first cut. So I do think its ignoring that line. Lets focus on that line alone till we find it.

Remove the A.. see what it does.. we'll go from there..

Art
Removing the A did not help.
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