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Author Topic: My laser engraver from 0 knowledge to 11.362% .... probably  (Read 4715 times)
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ArtF
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« Reply #60 on: February 02, 2020, 09:47:48 AM »

Bobby:

  Its probably just a system bug displayin g it twice.

 Are you trying to make a Gcode for the air assist or a button to
trigger an output?

Art
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BobbyW
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« Reply #61 on: February 02, 2020, 10:42:16 AM »

Hi Art
Yes. That i try a button to trigger the secon relay , as laser power button do
 , but i saw the library was already created , so i try to use it ,
but unfortuna tely without success .
Is not realy a big deal , but even is a fridge motor turned as compresso r , he made some noise ,
and in time of "study " to turn off without move from my PC .Also i figure out , the air pressure
change total'y the final result , depend of material . I mount a regulator from " argon tig welder "
I'm not on my native home right now to made some real test's but i assume , if i use " argon " instead of air ,
cutting on wood will be better . I think ,
 thanks
Bobby


* compressor.jpg (120.95 KB, 900x1600 - viewed 33 times.)
« Last Edit: February 02, 2020, 12:35:14 PM by BobbyW » Logged
BobbyW
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« Reply #62 on: February 03, 2020, 04:28:02 AM »


  Its probably just a system bug displayin g it twice.

Art

Hi Art
Yea , probably . Yesterday i found a annoing bug , than force you to close auggie only with
CTRL+shift+ESC and kill the process , otherwise you can't get away of that.
Also i try to reproduce the bug , and finaly i found how that was created ( focused on my work i forgot what i do to
get that bug, i spend half of hour to find the way to recreate the bug )
I don't know , to post here , or create a new topic with "Auggie bugs" ?
Thanks
Bobby
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ArtF
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« Reply #63 on: February 03, 2020, 07:18:20 AM »

Bobby:

 Post it under Auggie Bugs and Ill see if it can be fixed up. It is possible in Auggie to script yourself to
a death, it can be hard to stop some script situation s where a script calls itself for example.. .

Art
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BobbyW
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« Reply #64 on: February 03, 2020, 07:57:44 AM »

Bobby:

 Post it under Auggie Bugs and Ill see if it can be fixed up. It is possible in Auggie to script yourself to
a death, it can be hard to stop some script situation s where a script calls itself for example.. .

Art

You talk about recursion script without exit condition ?
No , i didn't touch auggie scripts , yet , i need more to learn .
I will post the bug soon i will get home , i made some screensho t's about.
Thanks
Bobby
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BobbyW
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« Reply #65 on: February 17, 2020, 03:59:20 PM »

Hello everyone
I have some " stupid " questions Undecided
Of course are releated at AUGS module used for generated the code for engrave .
First of all english is not my native , i have double nationali ty of my parents , english is fourth language necesary to get it work,
so  i apologise for my gramma .
I figure out how to properly set my speed / power / for engrave , i modify totaly my source and all good, but.
I did't get some "basic" knowledge about AUGS module .

1: I calculate d by size , on my photo , the pixel resolutio n , according with optimal shooting time ,speed and beam size
and on some picture after i generate the code auggie say me error and wont display after i load the code .
Exist some size limit , or just extension fault ? Many time i change from png to jpg and work , keeping resolutio n , but not all time
That confuse me a little

2: I think " StepOver " is represent the beam size , and is how much one axe will step to scale the image
That's correct ?

3: I don't get it what "ramp " does , i try different from 1 to 500 and , but i think is strict about image size , or not ?
I try to zoom after auggie generate , and i don't see to much differenc e , actualy i don't see at all on any value .

4: It is the picture showed in auggie panel after load the code , the real one loaded  from code ? Because i try different resolutio ns
and after zoom in i didn't seen any effect , is like the imagine remain at very poor resolutio n .

Thanks , I will put pictures soon i will get better .
And how Art advice me , i learn some standard GCODE command , and , yea , is more easy , after some time , is like you brain do it without think about
you just know what will happen .
Thanks for now
Bobby
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ArtF
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« Reply #66 on: February 18, 2020, 10:29:47 AM »

Hi Bobby:

  Glad to hear your getting more experienc e.. Here are some thoughts. .

>>>>1: I calculate d by size , on my photo , the pixel resolutio n , according with optimal shooting time ,speed and beam size
and on some picture after i generate the code auggie say me error and wont display after i load the code .
Exist some size limit , or just extension fault ? Many time i change from png to jpg and work , keeping resolutio n , but not all time
That confuse me a little

    You can in theory load any resolutio n image, though I have had memory problems with huge ones. You shouldnt have
to calculate any optimal timing for a photo, just the output size in mm or inches.. whatever you use. You do need
to make sure you change those two DRO's ( XSize and YSize) to make it do output. Some images may cause trouble,
the image importer may screw up on some image types as they can vary in specifica tion.


>>2: I think " StepOver " is represent the beam size , and is how much one axe will step to scale the image
That's correct ?

  Not really.. though you can set it to the beam width, what it does is divide the Y dimension by that amount of passes
so each pass moves forward by "StepOver" amount. On some materials an overlap is good, on some youd want none.
 As you lower the stepover, the cut time will increase. 

>>
3: I don't get it what "ramp " does , i try different from 1 to 500 and , but i think is strict about image size , or not ?
I try to zoom after auggie generate , and i don't see to much differenc e , actualy i don't see at all on any value .

   Ramp sets how far away from the photo the X path starts and ends. It is good for quality to have the axis up to speed
on each pass before it starts to cut. So if Ramp is 1" , then it will start and end 1" before and after the photo. This ensures
a constant speed while photo engraving . In truth , Auggie will burn only when in the photo box so one could do spirals or
random lines and still burn the photo, so ramping is just a way of ensuring constant speed and power capabilit y.

>>
4: It is the picture showed in auggie panel after load the code , the real one loaded  from code ? Because i try different resolutio ns
and after zoom in i didn't seen any effect , is like the imagine remain at very poor resolutio n .

  The photo that is shown is the interpola ted data from the image. It is what the GCode will see. If the end cut has a resolutio n
of 10 inches in the X direction , for example, but the photo has only  100 pixels in the X, the photo shown will look low resolutio n.

Hope this helps,
Art

 


Thanks , I will put pictures soon i will get better .
And how Art advice me , i learn some standard GCODE command , and , yea , is more easy , after some time , is like you brain do it without think about
you just know what will happen .
Thanks for now
Bobby
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BobbyW
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« Reply #67 on: February 20, 2020, 04:24:03 PM »

Hi Bobby:

Hope this helps,
Art

Hi Art , hello anyone
Of course helps , any advice is good in any way >
But now , realy , realy confuse me , i don't say is not good , i say just confuse me . So i explain .
The picture below was taken from other picture on paper , very old with very bad resolutio n . Because that count of course .
Soon , i modify my source with that DAC converter , everythin g is just fine , i can control the treshold between two levels
on any power level i want .
So , before to buy that chip , i try all setting blindly (no oscilosco pe here) and i notice , i can have full gray scale at 360Hz PWM sett
0.0027 in plan config . So , now i say to give a try , just for fun , and i saw a good result on paper , almost full scale .
Second thing , all photos now , i just apply a mask layer between 0-100 , grayscale , anyway i dont think pokeys will recognise 254 .
Now, the interesti ng thing was, i set to 360Hz, the last set remain in my memory and i start . I notice was good on that very very bad rez photo.
After , i set the power and speed to cut the photo , and in mistake i forgot to change the PWM to high at 5Khz .
Amazing , with 360 pulses , the cut was the same , BUT... the important thing , i dont see the burning sign where i cut . Is just WHITE.
I just can not explain that . I ususly set the power when i cut with 5KHz at limit to pass though playwood , just to avoid unnecesar y power
and burning . But always the edges was black , normaly . And after with much less power , obviously we cant compare 5000 with 560 , i got very clean cut
the same and this time just no any sign of burn . I just was close to look behind because even smoke almost missing there and , on my mA-meter
the current did't pass 4 mA.
I think is something about the energy inside the tube , is released more agressive , in pulses and in good timing , is like is the time to wait the energy to gain
again inside. For that reason i will start a little study about laser . Because just i dont get it , but is very good
The smoke just missing . Not totaly but not like usualy , even on paper is noticeabl e on cutting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0-BY1WZFP0

Thanks
Bobby


* engraving.jpg (123.42 KB, 1600x900 - viewed 29 times.)

* cutting.jpg (64.12 KB, 900x1600 - viewed 32 times.)
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ArtF
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« Reply #68 on: February 21, 2020, 08:50:02 AM »

Hi:

   I too find the laser are non-linear in many ways. Also the materials are nonlinear in their responce
to IR radiation . So its really a matter of experienc e , speed and power. The PWM for RF lasers is
typically about 5Khz, which is why its the default, but its VERY possible that a HV power supply may
need lower or higher PWM.. I have no experienc e with that yet, just RF lasers ( Synrads).

   I have doen many 3d engraving s with no burn marks at all in the wood, and many with terribhle
burn marks. I typically increase speed and power as much as I can as I find max power at the right
speed in wood leaves the least burn, it kinda evaporate s the wood rather than burns it..

Art
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BobbyW
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« Reply #69 on: February 29, 2020, 05:12:56 PM »

Hello everyone .
I notice something . As example you cut something and you get an error (my case after i grounded everythin g i get random error only on RJ45 cable) , the program will stop and Estop disengage d > still after you try to run , you need to activate M3 .
In that case you need to remember and go on that line or some below. It is possible to create a button to run M3 on one click ?
To don't change to MDI to run M3
Probably is ...
The second question , i've seen , Pokeys support some temperatu re sensors . Is possible to create a small display (with scripts) to
see the temperatu re of cooling liquid ? 
Also about that subject , i read some controver sed opinion " what is better for cooling " , Most of the peoples say water is better ,
my opinion , so many engineer's study what is best for cooling and i think , only a professio nal guy will know the answer .
In any case , " as some peoples says based on home researche s with limited knowledge  " water is better , i don't think that's right .
I put below what i use , " sry is in french but here everythin g is like that , even imported product's they change the label  Undecided "
The main reason i chose special product for cooling is " no oxidation and no froze "


* 20200229_224614.jpg (3030.37 KB, 4128x2322 - viewed 27 times.)

* 20200229_224622.jpg (2954.04 KB, 4128x2322 - viewed 24 times.)
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ArtF
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« Reply #70 on: February 29, 2020, 10:19:54 PM »

Hi:

   I cant speak to cooling, my lasers are air cooled, but when I did use water, I just added some car windshiel d antifreez e to it.

As to the m3, there is no button set, but it is possible to make a script button to activate an M3. Im just so used to clicking on MDI
where I have an M3 at the top, and I do a single line execute on it, then swap back to code screen, that I never got around to
adding a button to my screen. You only need to find a spot for a button, name it something like MyM3Calle r, and then add a script
to your libraries called MyM3Calle r(state) and in that script call a Engine.GC ode("M3"); Add another to turn it off. I dont advise a
toggle button unless you wish to add some logic to figure out if the m3 is on or off before deciding to turn it off or on..

Art
 
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BobbyW
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« Reply #71 on: March 16, 2020, 09:39:18 AM »

Hi everyone
After a lot of fails , i manage to get what is wrong on my laser power. Take it away the source problems
i notice , my laser is to powerful on minim power . How i figure out ? I explain.
I made a black square at 100x100mm and i start to engrave . During engrave i try to adjust manual the power ,
and i notice , i can get only 10% grey and after fine adjust jump instead to 100% (black) ;
So i start to find a solution , and better was to calsulate the speed travel , frequency of PWM and duration pulse
on that speed. Finaly i was impress myself , the good result start to arrive .
I put some photos below. I can engrave like that almost like multipass engrave at 1mm deep with very good result when
you don't look face to face to the picture.
https://youtu.be/kKC0AN3QBiM

Thanks
Bobby


* alexa polywood 2.jpg (121.77 KB, 900x1600 - viewed 26 times.)

* alexa polywood 1.jpg (104.41 KB, 900x1600 - viewed 27 times.)

* Miramir polywood.jpg (127.08 KB, 900x1600 - viewed 30 times.)
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tweakie
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« Reply #72 on: March 16, 2020, 09:56:07 AM »

Excellent work BobbyW - you have mastered the laser beast  Wink

Tweakie.
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BobbyW
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« Reply #73 on: March 16, 2020, 10:28:35 AM »

Excellent work BobbyW - you have mastered the laser beast  Wink

Tweakie.

Thanks Tweakie . To be honest you get a lot of credit for that , you say to me first about Pokeys , Auggie , Art and rest of
nice peoples here . I want to thanks everyone who give me an advice and correct me when i do mistakes.
Thanks to everyone . Anyway now become more seriously , i got more and more attracted by laser.
I want to build my own RF tube right now. I collect some informati on about those RF lasers and ... why not
what i can lose , some money , nahh knowledge arrive from try and mistakes .
I will start next month , now i'm block in France because of that " stupid and imaginary corrona virus"
i don't believe that anyway .
I will post the news here
Bobby
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ArtF
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« Reply #74 on: March 24, 2020, 07:39:09 AM »

Bobby:

   You have showed how much perserver ance is important . Not giving up leads to the best results
and youve shown that very well. Nice work!. When I was developin g Mach3, I had thousands of
blue screens of death before I finally managed to take over Windows to make a timer work my way.
   It took 6 months to prove to myself that I could do that when pretty much everyone said it
couldnt be done. Sometimes you have to go with faith in your abilities and just persevere . It
doesnt always pay off, but when it does it is very gratifyin g. Be gratified, your photos look as
professio nal as any Ive seen.

  Its been very nice watching your progress to the point where you've mastered both
Auggie and your laser. Im impressed .

Art
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