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Author Topic: Time for an informed decision  (Read 17655 times)
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GlennD
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Hmm didn't know that.


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« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2015, 09:40:14 PM »

I am knocking out a single sided PCB, BOB for the connectio ns.
I can post a picture or the eagle files when I am done and it is working.
I will also provide the part numbers from Digikey if anyone wants them.
Probably should be in another thread I am guessing

Glenn.
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Mooselake
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« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2015, 10:48:03 AM »

Cool, I'd like to see how it works out - start a new topic when that happens.

It sounds similar to what I'm planning to do with left over parts and a project board or two.  It'll help score a few short term points with Mrs. Moose in the "what are you keeping all this c*** for" moments, but I suspect that's a unique situation and doesn't affect anybody else  Smiley

Kirk
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Jerrywi
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« Reply #17 on: December 28, 2015, 06:21:07 PM »

Hay Art, Kirk.
Just received  my 40 watt co2 laser. for the most part everythin g looks okay. it came with the box packaged inside a wooden crate. no apparent damages.
It came with a cd with several files on it. corell laser software and LaserDrw 2013.02 software.
when trying to install the software my Norton security stopped the install and stated it had "BackDoor Graybird" and Trojan.Ge n.SMH.2. Very High security risk??
It also flagged the Dongle as having a virus. Did any body else have similar issues?
Also, can I hook up the usb cable and power on the laser so the computer can Recognize it without hooking up the water pump?
thanks
Jerry
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Mooselake
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« Reply #18 on: December 28, 2015, 07:46:51 PM »

I vaguely remember something about a virus warning when installin g, with the recommend ation it can be ignored (but don't take my word for it), but didn't get it on my system.  However, I use the M$ antivirus (seems to go by different names, it's Defender on W10).  You might ask that one on the K40 G+ group.  I seem to recall something about Norton not liking GM in the past, too.

The dongle is a hardware dodad,  no files to have virii.  Strange it would flag that one.

I've never tried to run the laser without the pump going, they're on the same power strip, and I've got a flow switch to install as a safety.  If you do, don't ever try to fire it.  From Art's recommend ation I've got the pump and tubing run into a 5 gal drywall bucket with 3 gallons of blue windshiel d washer fluid in it.  Some K40 G+ users seem to like pink RV antifreez e, which WallyWorl d sells for about the same price.  Either should keep out the dreaded green algae.

Kirk
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ArtF
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« Reply #19 on: December 28, 2015, 08:44:59 PM »

Yes, never run without water. Mine has a water flow switch, your may as well. You can power up, but if you press for power
you can burn your output lens in an instant.. So Id advise being very carefull if theres no water flow switch. ( You might even think of adding one, their cheap and can save you a tube if the pump stops.. ( not unusual situation .. Smiley )

Art
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Jerrywi
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« Reply #20 on: December 29, 2015, 08:00:16 AM »

Thanks Kirk, Art,
I will be ordering a flow switch while i'm setting the laser up in my work shop.

Jerry
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Mooselake
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« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2015, 02:18:57 PM »

Flow switches are easy to wire, put them in series with the laser enable switch.  However, you might have problems finding one that works.  I tried the T in switch from LightObje cts, on the return line, and there wasn't enough pressure to close it.

After the T switch adventure (I want the switch on the return at the bucket in case a hose comes off, not just to prove the pump is working) I got a couple of these, from a recommend ation I saw somewhere .  Apparentl y getting metric or US threads is kinda random, mine matched NPT fittings at the local hardware store, but other reviewers have said theirs were metric.  I've only blown through them to test switch closure, haven't actually tried wiring them in yet.

Of course, when you convert to Auggie you can make the switch a separate input rather than just inline with the laser enable.

Kirk
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Mooselake
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« Reply #22 on: December 31, 2015, 06:02:17 PM »

I did a bit more digging  (3D printer babysitti ng...) into Norton and LaserDRW, but not a lot of luck.  By any chance is it the error discussed here?

Otherwise lots of general grumbling about Norton, but no specific mention of LaserDRW.

Kirk
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Jerrywi
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« Reply #23 on: January 01, 2016, 06:10:33 PM »

Thanks Kirk
I went ahead and installed the Laserdrw software on my desk top computer that runs my cnc. it's not hooked up to the web so Im not that worried .
So I got the laser up and running and have been playing around. I've watched limited you tube tutorials (limited results)

Art and Kirk,

It took me a while to wrap my head around Mach3, G-Code, G540 controlle r,nc files, tap files, etc. etc. and cambam so my mind set is based on my CNC knowledge .
So I need to learn more about Laser hardware and software . can I use other design software that will be more user friendly now or after I change out hardware for auggie.
I have one last question, a few years back I purchased some 3d puzzles files that was downloade d as DXF files for 2d cutting on my cnc and EPS files for Lasers.
is EPS the file extension to Lasers as nc is to CNC Router files?

If anyone can point me to a link, forum  that will retrain my brain to better get a handle on the new toy.LOL

Thanks to all

Jerry



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DanL
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« Reply #24 on: January 01, 2016, 07:00:29 PM »

eps is a vectric drawing file not NC, it's the only program I have seen use .eps as a drawing file. if you post the files in a zip some nice person may convert them to .dxf or cut files
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ArtF
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« Reply #25 on: January 01, 2016, 07:10:02 PM »

EPS is a vector drawing format, like dxf .. its specific to drawing programs usually, there is no real standard for lasers, I use DXF most of the
time on my dps driven laser. Ive never used the control you have, my advice woudl be not to swap out the hardware till your done
playing and Auggie is driving a laser properly. .


  But generally, most cutting you do on a laser is DXF or other vector formats depending on the flavour of controlle r you have.
Usually you can find a converter to convert between various vector based formats..

Art


 
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Steve Fox
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« Reply #26 on: January 01, 2016, 07:13:54 PM »

eps is a vectric drawing file not NC, it's the only program I have seen use .eps as a drawing file. if you post the files in a zip some nice person may convert them to .dxf or cut files

I'll give it a shot, if you want.
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Mooselake
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« Reply #27 on: January 02, 2016, 03:50:20 PM »

You can import dxf files into CorelDraw with the LaserDRW plugin.  I cut some Gearotic eccentric gears out of acrylic using the combinati on without any major problems, although you may need to watch out for the beam width making the gears smaller than you want.  It was an issue for mod 1.0 gears...

I normally use LaserDRW where DXFs don't matter, partially because I spend too much time looking up how to do things with Corel (learned drafting with organic tools, i.e wood  pencils, none of this modern computer stuff), and partially because I installed things in the wrong order (too eager...) and only get one cut without reloading Corel.  Haven't gotten around to uninstall ing and reinstall ing to fix that yet.

Resurrect ed my 3D printer after 6 months of idleness, needed to reflash it after installin g Z screws that had too little friction (default was to shut the Z motors off when idle, they then drifted down and made nice pancakes), got distracte d.   Next up is to print some mounts to allow an adjustabl e Z table, get the laser put back together, and do some more pre-auggie lasering.  Down the road neighbor kids have discovere d my toy collectio n, have been trying them out, and want to see more of them working.

Kirk


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Jerrywi
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« Reply #28 on: January 02, 2016, 07:16:34 PM »

Art, Kirk, Steve and DanL
Thanks Steve, I donít believe I need to convert those files, since they provided two versions of the same
Plans. One they labeled ď DXF for cncĒ and the second they labeled as ďLaser EPSĒ.
I.m using the Laser Draw. The coral is corrupt, states a file is missing.
Itís a journey figuring out the software and what each features does. Right now I can only print letters with a black back ground and white letters.
Canít seem to find out how to print solid letters, without the backgroun d.  Tried changing backgroun d color and letter color fill, but it engraves the same way. Oh well, the journey continues .
Iíd like to thank everyone for their input. Thatís what I like about this forum. So many knowledge able people out there.
Jerry
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DanL
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« Reply #29 on: January 03, 2016, 12:49:53 AM »

art get's ride of A hole fast. I dare you to ask a noob question on the linuxcnc forum
« Last Edit: January 03, 2016, 07:17:21 AM by ArtF » Logged
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