GearHeads Corner
December 13, 2017, 03:31:28 PM *
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 on: Today at 01:56:02 AM 
Started by Kiyoshi Yoshii - Last post by tweakie
As always, excellent works Yoshii.

Very cold here in the UK at the moment, snow everywher e.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.


 on: Today at 01:23:49 AM 
Started by Kiyoshi Yoshii - Last post by Kiyoshi Yoshii
Greetings from Tokyo with YouTube videos.

In this year, Cold wave has come earlier than usual in Tokyo.
How is your country?

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Works like these below were made.
I'm happy if you look them on YouTube.

Thank you

*New Works

*Old recommend ed works

*My YouTube Channel

 on: December 11, 2017, 12:25:39 PM 
Started by Dan Mauch - Last post by Dan Mauch
  As I finish a new kinetic art piece I want to share my experienc e creating a laser cut octogonal box. The box is 6.3" across the flats. Laser cutting the top and bottom was straight forward. The side pieces had to be cut at a 22.5 degree angle so that the edge of one side would butts perfectly with the adjacent sides when glued. To do this I laser cut a fixture for the 22.5 angle. I was pretty simple. First I taped down a scrap piece of 1/4" ply and had the laser cut two .2" wide by 2.625" long slots. Next I cut the 2 22.5 degree uprights that fit into the slots and position the length of each blank. This perfectly orientate d the 22.5 angle to the X axis  and 90 degrees to the Y axis. I then cut the 8 side blanks a bit long and last place each blank with the grain horizonta l on the fixture. I then lowered the cutting surface using the Z axis control to the correct focal point. Using the test feature of Laser Works 6, I jogged the X axis to the starting point for the cut on one edge and using a Y axis line cut the first side. Next I simply turned the blank around and place it back in the fixture to cut the other bevel.
 With all the pieces cut next came making a another fixture so that I could butt glue one side to the next and hold them in alignment while the glue cured. With all but one side glued the last step was to glue the 7 sides to the base which houses the motor, nicad batteries and electroni cs. The 8th side has the control panel for a charging connector and switches. It is removable for servicing .
I hope to have some pictures and video of the finished piece in the next week. The only thing I would do different ly on a similar project would be to cover the fixture in the area of the laser cut with a aluminum foil so while the laser cuts the blank the 40 watt setting is enough to burn the fixture also.

Dan Mauch

 on: December 06, 2017, 09:41:37 AM 
Started by bruce - Last post by bruce
Turns out the chart you show is the opposite to what the cutters actually are, so the chart the seller showed is correct
and I verified by looking at the number 1 and 8 cutters and could see which one was the 135 to rack easily.

I cut some gears a couple of days ago and they look good and very happy with results.

Still having some issues with gearotic between tools and project tabs. I need to watch the tutorial again.

 on: December 04, 2017, 12:13:39 PM 
Started by Dan Mauch - Last post by Dan Mauch
 Thanks I really enjoyed building that Trireme. Sort of reminds me of what Aristotle would have though of if he had Gearotics!

Dan Mauch

 on: December 03, 2017, 06:33:37 PM 
Started by Dan Mauch - Last post by BobL
Nicely done Dan..Than ks for sharing


 on: December 03, 2017, 04:19:25 PM 
Started by Dan Mauch - Last post by Dan Mauch
 I added some oars and made a few other improveme nts . See

Almost all laser cut from14/" Oak Plywood from Lowes.

Dan Mauch

 on: December 03, 2017, 09:42:24 AM 
Started by bruce - Last post by ArtF
Hi Bruce:

  Luckily, you need only find the one with the straight teeth, it will be the highest or lowest number
and is the rack cutter. Glad you have it figured.

 on: December 03, 2017, 09:31:38 AM 
Started by ErnieD - Last post by bruce
Several months ago I needed to make an internal spline to mate with the spline on the output shaft of an RC servo.
I was able to find info on this particula r servo spline that gave me the root diameter so I was able to get some idea as to tooth depth.
From there I ground a HS lathe bit into a profile that fit into the spline OK, the teeth were more triangula r than gear tooth shaped
and using a fly cutter and dividing head I cut the spline into a piece of steel. I used this as a broach to cut the internal spline into
some aluminum, was a blind hole so had to make sure the blank hole was deep enough to take up the swarf from broaching .
It all worked OK and for the second time doing this I made some fixturing to hold everythin g in line while using the arbor press to push home the broach.
Since then I have bought some oil hardening tool steel so the next broach I make I can easily harden.
Any who that's my spline story.

 on: December 03, 2017, 09:14:09 AM 
Started by bruce - Last post by bruce
Before I had posted this topic here I had sent a message to the seller of these cutters about the labeling.
They replied back after you responded with that list of numbers versus number of teeth and dumb a** me
I should have scrolled down on the listing farther and there was a chart showing cutter number versus range of number of teeth, however;
they show exact opposite, number 1 cutter 12-13 teeth and the list you gave me shows number 1 cutter 135 teeth to rack.
So looks like to confirm all this I will have to look at the cutter profile and determine which cutter has the straighte st profile.
I have another set (M1.0) that shows number of teeth range etched on the cutter it will cut so I can use that as a profile example to compare
with just in case I get confused (which happens often at my age) along the way.
Thanks for the help with this issue.

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