GearHeads Corner

Hello everyone. So , is my first post here obviously , and from totaly "0" knowledge of CNC machines or GCODE i start to build my own laser engraver ,cutter, whatever will be  :o.
First thanks to Art and tweakie for first advices what i should buy and try for laser engraver. Initialy i want to build for my wife and fun but after time passing , i take it personaly, is alot of learn about CNC machines and that keep me intereste d on.
Good things and bad things about my start always are, of course.
Good one's has, i just start without any schematic and i just adjust everythin g in work procces. I buy newma 23 2.0n clossed loop stepper , pokeys57C NC and of course auggie . Start like a charm. I didn't finish to install the laser yet but i hope i managed to calibrate the steps ,axes, everythin g. Some limits switch missing but soon will be done too. I manage to learn how to tune and set in pokeys ......i'm up,,, i think  ::)
Bad things , i didnt realy understan d how all GCODE comands work " time is to short " to much informati on on strange field for me .
Second , i don't manage to install augie correctly on lenovo w530 64bit win7 pack1, i7.8G ram, SSD. I got some strange error on start to install auggie " this program stop" and after windown recover the problem and install work correctly, probably my stupid antivirul open in sandbox first. But it work.
Other thing is , until 2 min of trying push Estop i got engaged, disengage t message and i need to push again Estop until 20 times to get working. That happen only on network, USB work perfectly . I try in bridge, DHCP router only and home router linksys EA6900 , fixed IP, private class, everythin g. Probably is misssconf iguration in profile , i dont know.
Other is PWM, i didnt manage to try on others pins, but is engaged on analog out at 17 i think 0-10v, still dont have time to measure everythin g correctly . That in the feature. I read here to use others pins from trusted user , tweakie.
I'm electroni c engineer, ASM , C programme r but is first time on CNC mashining, is alot to learn and ...
So that's it..... i'm up
I put some pictures below , and ignore the mess, is for everyone of as who learning. ....
Critics are welcome and sry for my poor english
Still i didn't figure out how to load DXF in auggie for cutting and in wich program i should use to build the vector

Bobby:

  Well , your off to a good start being that you managed to tune your steppers and such.

>>Other thing is , until 2 min of trying push Estop i got engaged, disengage t message and..

  Check your network delay setting in the final page of axis settings. Some need 1, some need 0
in that setting for network use.

>>Still i didn't figure out how to load DXF in auggie for cutting and in wich program i should use to build the vector

  You can load a dxf into Vexx and select all contours, then edit/group, then press the quickGcod e button. This
will put out code for lasers from a dxf. Auggie will only load photos to make Gcode from, not dxf's. It will load
Vexx's Gcode though.


  Yell when confused. .

Art

Hi Bobby,

Will it be a CO2 laser that you are installin g and what is the wattage ?

Tweakie.

Hi Bobby!

Welcome to the forum!  I don't know means you realize there's always more to learn, and despite some occasiona l frustrati on that's where the fun is.  Keep us posted on how you're doing, and don't forget those safety glasses, only takes seconds to ruin your eyes.

Hi Tweakie!  When did you add a forum to your site, and is that a new host?

Kirk

Hi Kirk,

I had to change website hosting following a change of policy by my service provider. The website was added just so that different 8 bit image laser engraving technique s could be discussed but unfortuna tely there has been little or no interest.

Tweakie.

Is 80w tube, same the source. I test recently to adjust maximum current alowed , to dont damage the laser, and i notice , the laser source on TTL input have a residual internal voltge at 600mv. That will turn laser on with alot of power(without input signal). Also at 2.4V input i reach 22mA. That is normal or the power source dont work corectly?
Thanks

Hi Bobby,

Could you perhaps post some details of your laser PSU / controlle r ?

Tweakie.

Hi:

 yeah, its hard to tell whats up without knowing how its hooked up.
The PWM puts out a tickle voltage which yours may not need, so you may want to set tickle at 0 in the settings.
But then there should be no voltage when laser is off..

Art

Yes sure. I didn't think on that, sry.   :(
The source is this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/911254124.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.490f6f3e9u1QMx&algo_pvid=15f05b4c-2cb1-45f9-900e-8eb87797684d&algo_expi d=15f05b4c-2cb1-45f9-900e-8eb87797684d-2&btsid=c82436b8-a867-4703-8316-1c5aa42280ac&ws_ab_tes t=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_52 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/911254124.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.490f6f3e9u1QMx&algo_pvid=15f05b4c-2cb1-45f9-900e-8eb87797684d&algo_expid=15f05b4c-2cb1-45f9-900e-8eb87797684d-2&btsid=c82436b8-a867-4703-8316-1c5aa42280ac&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_52)

and laser is this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32784065931.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.2ce43a39J6FNuq (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32784065931.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.2ce43a39J6FNuq)

 will open the source this weekend to see what is the problem , or just working like that , i dont know. But normaly , any input should offer more high impedance possible with 0 residual voltage .
Thanks

I think a simple test would be to disconnec t anything connected to the TTL(H) and TTL(L) terminals of the PSU.
If the laser still fires try fitting a pull-up resistor (10k) between TTL(L) and +5V and a pull-down resistor (10k) between TTL(H) and GND.
If the laser still fires then you have a problem with the PSU.

Sounds right to me. Usually a TTL high and TTL low are just inputs to an optocoupl er,
so with nothing hooked up you should get zero output..

Art

Is not connected yet on any pin of PSU. I just made some tests. Seems the PSU input TTL \L/H are very low impedance .
Now i have two problems , First , only below 1k resistor will turn off completly the laser , and that's bad, will be necessary to change entire input circuit and design the second one.
Second is , because i want to made the limit on maxim 60w of my laser. I buy on 80w just to don't stress him on max power. So that will be a little bit tricky , wil dont work only with some resistors and transisto rs.
Anyway , seems to be good , i made some test on a simple square in Auggie of course, and look very nice (without cut it, are not all the mirrors placed ) , and i saw the auggie calculate the laser power according with speed and velocity on corners ,i attach a photo.
Still i have a question . Why i never reach the maximum 3V voltage during cut operation ? In pokeys work perfectly , from 0 to 2.92v and that's normal. I miss some configura tions ?
And my second question  is on cutting operation, like example i cut two circles , the cutting speed is more high than travel speed between cuts . Is that normal ? Sry , i don't realy know to much about CNC , is new zone for me . :-[

Hi:

>>Why i never reach the maximum 3V voltage during cut operation ? In pokeys work perfectly , from 0 to 2.92v and that's normal. I miss some configura tions ?

  Auggie corrects for speed vs power in order to stop burning in corners. The formula though is  (actual speed) / ( feedrate commanded) * power. So if you set F50 and it reaches 50, you get 100% power. IF you command 2000 and it only reaches 100
you get very little. You adjust your feedrate command to the maximum the axis actually hit and it will hit 100% of commanded speed.


>>And my second question  is on cutting operation, like example i cut two circles , the cutting speed is more high than travel speed between cuts . Is that normal ? Sry , i don't realy know to much about CNC , is new zone for me .

  Travel speed should be the highest you can do. Its a g0 move, which means rapid. A g1 move is at feedrate and feedrate
will never go higher than rapid can. But..its hard to say how your code was written, it may be the Gcode your using is commandin g it. If you show us the code I can tell you.

Art

So, what i understan d , i need to have at maximum desired speed feedrate "100" , and on my is 6000. That's mean , he will never reach 6000 and the power percentag e will be something like 100/6000 , 1.6% of 3v  at 100 feedrate correct ? And that's mean , i need to set my motors to reach maxim speed at 100 feedrate right?
The code are just for test to understan d how all that work.
That settings i found to be the best move on my motors ,
I keep digging .
Thank you Art ,

Hi:

  No, you dont need to adjust motors for that, you adjust feedrate. Here is my recommend ed process
once you have set the proper steps/unit for your motors.

 Use Jog buttons and jog axis back and forth. Adjust the max velocity and max accel in the planner config
for that axis so the jog is as fast as you think the machine should do at 100% jog speed. Adjust the accel
so the Jog take off and stop are abrupt but not too abrupt. Make sure it is very quick to start and stop
and goes fast at 100%. Then slow jog to 20% and make sure its a nice jog motion.

Now, adjust the Jerk setting to 50,000. Make a GCode program of a large square that takes up most
of your table. Run the program and see how jerky it is. If each corner seems jerky, lower the Jerk
setting, if the corners seem too slow, raise the jerk limit. Find the jerk setting for which that
square runs fast and smooth. That should make the settings proper.

 Now, set a feedrate of 100 in the Feedrate DRO. Run the program and watch the tool velocity DRO.
If the tool velocity hits 100 at any time, raise the feedrate to 200 and repeat. You will find eventuall y
a speed where the table will not hit the actual velocity any more. That is the point where the power will
no longer hit 100% if you go faster.

   For laser burning I use the Feedrate Override checkbox so that any feedrate command in the Gcode is ignored
in favor of the feedrate and Override slider % I have set. Each program is different so I run it without laser on to
see how fast it will go as an average. If I see the speed DRO is varying around 3000 or so, I set the feedrate
to 3000 and run the program with my preferred power selected on the Laser Power slider.

  Doing all this will give you maximum performan ce and is important if you intend to do 3d machining by laser
which is the most complex operation you can do in Auggie.

Art

Hi Art. So what i understan d , soon i found a proper step per unit , don't need to be in accordanc e with max accel and max velocity .
Ok i understan d now, i will try soon i will go home . I assume that operation force me to put all the home and limit switches to avoid crash , right ? I have only on X the limit working properly , to lazy to put all  :-[ . So i think i will be forced now to finish .
Thank you for all the answers and i will let you know soon what mistakes i will do  :D
Thanks

Hi
I got home and i start some test. So , what i understan d until now from my tests. The step per unit field , i figure out is the motor tuning according with transfer rate , multiplie r , demultipl ier , driver config , so i take a meter , i put on my table and i adjust the step per unit until i reach the same distance of showed on the auggie screen . I assume the machine and work coordonat es are represent ed in mm .That's correct ? Also i draw a 800 mm line in vexx and i measure on my table the travel distance . I got the same 80 step per unit  as my first config. I hope i don't talking silly.

Next : I figure out " at least in my head " the maximum speed  in pokeys config is synchroni zed with feedrate. I put maximum speed 1000 to test and i'v seen at 1000 feedrate , on a simple circle (like cut operation), the laser reach max power on entire travel. If i increase the feedrate over 1000 i need to decrease percent to reach maximum power. That's correct ? Is fare i notice .

Also: I notice now , when my machine travel free without cutting , the speed is more higher than cutting speed. So i think that is normal now. My question is now, maximum accelerat ion should be more smaller than maximum speed ? Exist a math rapport for that or is about tuning , how machine respond ?

But at least , my motors are able to move more smooth and faster now , without to multiply the feedrate and percent so high. I assume in every day will become better  :)
I'm feel so lost now, i start to aggressiv e , and to much informati on on short time .
And again , sry for my english  :-[
Thanks

Hi Bobby:

>>until i reach the same distance of showed on .... I got the same 80 step per unit as my first config.

Sounds correct. One easy way to make sure all is good is to simply command Auggie to move 100mm.
If it moves for example 95mm, you then use the formula

  TrueSteps PerMM =  (100 / 95) * CurrentSe ttingofSt epsPerMM

  So its just  (Actual/Commanded) * current setting = NewSettin g;

>>Next : I figure out " at least in my head " the maximum speed  in pokeys config is synchroni zed with feedrate. I put maximum speed 1000 to test and i'v seen at 1000 feedrate , on a simple circle (like cut operation), the laser reach max power on entire travel. If i increase the feedrate over 1000 i need to decrease percent to reach maximum power. That's correct ? Is fare i notice .

   The circle you command has a natural maximum speed based on its radius. Any axis causes jerk as it starts or stops, and in a circle it has a tangentia l jerk depending on speed and radius. So the radius sets the maximum speed you will hit depending on
your accel, max vel, and jerk setting.
  So if you command a speed of 1000 and the natural maximum is 1500, you will go at 1000, and your power will be
proportio nal to your  (speed / 1000) * power; So at 1000, this would be 1000/1000 * power or 1 * power.
But if the natural limit speed is 1500 due to jerk and accel and you command 2000, you will never hit 2000,
you will only hit 1500. So your power will at maximum be 1500/2000 * power = .75* power or 75% of the power
you request. This is easy to understan d if you consider a car on a round track. If the track is 50 miles long, you can do
maximum speed of the car, if the track is 500 foot long, you cant get above 30KPH or the car will roll over. The setting
of MaxJerk and Accel set the max speed of the car on any track size and takes into account when it would roll over
and limits the max speed.

   So to set speed correctly if you want to go as fast as possible, set the feedrate to 50000, run the program with
laser power off and watch the Velocity DRO, if it averages 1250, set the feedrate to 1250 and then run it with
laser power on and you will hit 100% when speed = 1250 or above.


>>Also: I notice now , when my machine travel free without cutting , the speed is more higher than cutting speed. So i think that is normal now. My question is now, maximum accelerat ion should be more smaller than maximum speed ? Exist a math rapport for that or is about tuning , how machine respond ?

   Maximum Accel can be any number, but to set it properly, just use the jog buttons.
Jog the X axis back and forth. Note how quickly it takes off and stops. Adjust accel so the takeoff and stopping is
faily quick but smooth and not jerky. Then ignore it, Auggie will use the accelerat ion it needs but not exceed
what you have set.

>>I assume in every day will become better  Smiley
I'm feel so lost now, i start to aggressiv e , and to much informati on on short time .

  Experienc e is all that will help, as you use it youll get sued to what to change or not. I really advise you
to learn GCode. IT is really very easy and you only need to know 4 or 5 commands. ..

G0 XYZABC means to move as fast as possible and do not fire laser in move.
G1 XYZABC means to move at the speed in the Feedrate  DRO or program Feedrate command
                  This G1 also means to burn laser while cutting if laser is on.
M3  -- Enable laser ability to burn (Normally spindle on in cnc)
M5  -- Disable laser ability to burn
Fxxxx -- Set max G1 speed to xxxx mm/minute
G3 xyzabcij  // do an arc to xyz with i,j as the x,y of the center of the arc.

  You can type any of these commands in the single line MDI window. (MDI means manual direct input)
just select the single MDI tab, type a line, highlight it and press run. Its a fast way to command motion
for testing.

Glad to hear things are running, you'll get much better over time.. :)

Art

Thanks Art for all that informati on.
I'm not realy sure , so fare i understan d and i saw , the maximum speed is necessary to be configure d in pokeys not auggie , right ? Because not all settings made'd in auggie reflects in pokeys and not all time auggie import all settings. As example i create a new profile , and i import pokeys config. The PWM channel remain at "4" , period , and some other settings .
I manage to figure out to connect PWM at pin "20" but , like you know my stupid source have the residual voltage on analog input "0-5v" and between 10% and 20% power (set in auggie) the voltage is integrate d on analog input source control only 160mv , and at 80W laser that is not quite right. I drop down the voltage on source input with a external 680R resistor but now i need to made the impedance adaptor , because a simple pc817 optocuple r are not able to increase the PWM linear on that low impedance . I try with TLP705 but , i'm in france now with my job and without my oscilosco pe is hard to tell "blindly" what happen on laser input. I notice my source dont have TTL input , i attach below the photo of control. I didn't open the source , to see how is made the control circuit , but i didn't notice any delay of ON/Off . Whatever i will fix that in the feature .
https://youtu.be/zO68eE9Gxzo (https://youtu.be/zO68eE9Gxzo)

Also as suggestio n or is just a bug, on jog axis buttons -/+, sometime on a simple touch , the motors continue moving and other time need to keep pressed to move . It is the button's programed as debouncin g mode ? Or just take and return value ? I don't know where to look , but i assume all are made'd in script files . I crash the axes several times , because not all limit switches was installed .

And about that step per unit  the perfect move at distance is "80" at my laser , edited in engine config in auggie. If i increase speed in pokeys , and i start auggie again , my machine will move faster but with different move distance . Auggie normal ask me where to load config , auggie or pokeys . What i shoul do in that situation ? Is my motors drivers configure d wrong ? Sry , but i don't know all that stufs.
Thanks for all advice's

Hi Bobby:


>>I'm not realy sure , so fare i understan d and i saw , the maximum speed is necessary to be configure d in pokeys not auggie , right ? Because not all settings made'd in auggie reflects in pokeys and not all time auggie import all settings. As example i create a new profile , and i import pokeys config. The PWM channel remain at "4" , period , and some other settings .

 No. You should set up a pokeys so it runs and set its inputs and outputs and such. But, you set the speeds in
Auggie, under the planner configura tion there is a page for each axis. You set  the number of steps/mm and the
maximum velocity in mm/minute. Auggie will send that to the pokeys at startup changing whatever it is set to.

  The PWM channel is set by a script in Auggies library to channel 4, it can only be changed by changing the script.
You can set the PWM freq and channel by editing the Spindle-Laser library file.


>>I manage to figure out to connect PWM at pin "20" but , like you know my stupid source have the residual voltage on analog input "0-5v" and between 10% and 20% power (set in auggie) the voltage is integrate d on analog input source control only 160mv  ....

  In the planner there are three PWM settings. The first is PWM Minimum. This is for a tickle PWM, normally set to 1 or 2us of tickle. Then there is PWMMin(Power) which is the minimum burning voltage if commanded to burn. Finally PWM Max which is
the maximum Auggie will set the PWM to, this is in order to protect the Laser Tube..

>>Also as suggestio n or is just a bug, on jog axis buttons -/+, sometime on a simple touch , the motors continue moving and other time need to keep pressed to move . It is the button's programed as debouncin  mode ? Or just take and return value ? I don't know where to look , but i assume all are made'd in script files . I crash the axes several times , because not all limit switches was installed .

    The buttons are capture and should turn off jog if you leave them, but I advise you to use the Keyboard Hotkeys in the config
to set keyboard arrows as jog. The keyboard is much more responsiv e... I am working on making the jog buttons on the
screen more reliable. They seem to suffer from time load of the system in some cases.


>>And about that step per unit the perfect move at distance is "80" at my laser , edited in engine config in auggie. If i increase speed in pokeys , and i start auggie again , my machine will move faster but with different move distance . Auggie normal ask me where to load config , auggie or pokeys . What i shoul do in that situation ? Is my motors drivers configure d wrong ? Sry , but i don't know all that stufs.


  If Auggie asks whether to use Auggie or Pokeys, select Auggie. It shouldn't ask again unless  you config the PoKeys.
Set your speeds in Auggie , once your running you shouldnt need to config the pokeys using their software again,
the speed and accel in Auggie is used at all times. So in Auggie set your steps/unit to 80 as you found,
then set max velocity to the fastest you want your system to ever go. Set accel so its smooth at takeoff.

  Here is an example of my X axis config...

Notice...

  My steps/mm is set to 96.73
  My Max. Vel. is set to 20875 steps / minute.  ( so 20,875 / 60  = 347 steps / second max..)
   You should never exceed 125,000 steps / second with a pokeys 57.
   My Max Accel is set to 20676 steps/sec^2..

  These three values set the fast speed of your axis. Make sure they are set and always answer the question
to use Auggies data or the pokeys by answering Auggie.

Try that and see how it works out..

Thx
Art




   



Art

Thanks Art . I will check that out ,, some test will arive now ;)
By the way , i don't use any gearotic software than "free auggie " but still like that , i buy a license today , just to support you awesome work .
You deserve it .
See a later , Bob

Ok , i figure out how motors settings work . Still exist alot of improveme nts but , time by time i will learn them. I have a question about PWM power. In engine /planner config , you set the min and max setting of you lasser and also that set the limit of you laser power . So in laser panel the control of laser power will go on linear percentag e between that settings ? Like example , my laser 100w , i config in planner/config at ,max 10 , so in laser panel if i put on 50% power  i will have 5W normal ,what i ask is  i will have linear scan in range of 10W configure d in planner? The laser power variable is integer or float ?
I ask because my laser seems is to powerful on engrave and i need to play between 2.2 - 2.4% laser power , 0.1 percent will burn literal'y . I have set in planner config at max 80%.
Thank you
Bob

Hi Bobby:

>>Like example , my laser 100w , i config in planner/config at ,max 10 , so in laser panel if i put on 50% power  i will have 5W normal?

Yes. PWM(Tickle) sets a tickle pulse, usually set to 2 for 2ms of tickle.
PWM Minimum is the min power at which laser will turn on.
PWM Max is max power ( Usually 95 - 100)

>>what i ask is  i will have linear scan in range of 10W configure d in planner? The laser power variable is integer or float ?

  It is integer, 0 - 100.

>>I ask because my laser seems is to powerful on engrave and i need to play between 2.2 - 2.4% laser power , 0.1 percent will burn literal'y . I have set in planner config at max 80%.

   Usually this is moving too slow. Power and speed are related to stop burning. For resolutio n
you want as high a power as possible without burning, the lower your feedrate, the lower you
must set your power. How fast are you going? What setting is your feedrate?

 Thx
art

Hi Art . I try different feedrate's of course, still lerning in motor config , making mistakes so easy to figure out what happen inside.
My laser can go very fast , still on reverse move , the return of any axe was very brutal , can hear the motor move . I figure out is where "jerk limit " come in action . I have right ?
And about my config i put some pictures below . I manage to build a good PWM indexer for my source , " like you know that crap source have strange low impedance " but on my power source documenta tion is written >20Khz frequency
 https://www.google.ro/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiokPXMtv7mAhW2AWMBHaACBzwQFjAAegQIBRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.ua.prom.st%2F913343_hy_80.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0I8535iQcYyogTljKpu6_Y (https://www.google.ro/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiokPXMtv7mAhW2AWMBHaACBzwQFjAAegQIBRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.ua.prom.st%2F913343_hy_80.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0I8535iQcYyogTljKpu6_Y)
Now the question in my head , i don't know the internal input capacitan ce on my source , to put a good PWM , to low or to high PWM frequency set will fail in non linearity power (if the source can't manage that) but thinking at analog , if low capacitan ce is , will be ok .
Now i set to 50khz .
Still i need more than 300 override percent to have a good move , not very slow.
And about "tickle" , I don't realy know what's mean the word. Sry my english. But i assume is like a STB power , always keep laser prepared to shoot. Is correct ?
Now i set to "0" i didn't seen to much differenc e on.
Also below on the picture my first test on my wife pic  :D :D :D
Thank you
Bobby

Pretty good..

  Yes, Tickle is for pre-ionization of the laser, just keeps it ready, its not
needed on all lasers. You are correct about jerk, if the axis is loud and jerky, lower the jerk limit..

PWM frequency typically wont matter, most power supplies use it only as
a voltage averaging scheme, so 20khz or 5khz will usually be the same result,
but only testing will tell. :)

 What power is your laser??

Art
.

Hi Art
My laser is 80W , and ,was my mistake about the source control. Wasn't broken or bad designed, it is set internaly at 40% power when nothing connected on input. I put some photos below.


Yes indeed , usual don't , but , depend of internal capacitan ce of source input , that can give a exponenti al voltage or just non linear.
Also now i read on PDF is only 20ma my reference 5V output . That can give me very bad pwm>vcc .
On begining i was able to pull down the residual input voltage , and use analog input as PWM . Now i try different trick , i let the source analog input limited at 40% and i connect my PWM at TL input , and it working , but the same , i can not tell the differenc e . Without oscilosco pe i cant tell if is linear or not, mostly because i didn't work for years on this machine , i just build it for fun . Still the photo look more linear like that . Right now i don't realy know what option is better to use , analog input or on TL.
The capacitor s in simulatio n are 100p, 1n , 100n , resistors are visible
Thanks
Bobby

I forgot to say about simulatio n . Like you see , is simulated 3 different internal capacitan ce at 5 and 20khz , also different internal resistanc e , and the result are very different , first on timing of VCC increase and second on linearity . I think that is my source problem not auggie or config, because doesn't matter how much i will try , seems the min-max power will change between some % of my laser panel set. I need to fix that first . I don't think is feedrate or other problem , is just no linear PWM to V caused by wrong adapting impedance .

I thinking to order that two pieces. Will give me a full control with perfect adaptive impedance set min max easy to protect laser, also rid out of that 40% residual input voltage .
https://www.renesas.com/us/en/doc/YOUSYS/document/003/r08ds0107ej0400_ps_family.pdf (https://www.renesas.com/us/en/doc/YOUSYS/document/003/r08ds0107ej0400_ps_family.pdf)
https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ltc2644.pdf (https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ltc2644.pdf)
thx
Bobby

Hi Bobby:

   I agree with your point, and using TL is probably fine, at least your PWMing a known analogue input.
It may, in the end, be a nonlinear voltage, but its also hard to say how that affects the linearity of the
laser output.

  One good way to tell is to download a greyscale form the internet and have auggie make an engraving
for it, you can then at least see the linearity of depth between grey scale set points. Its what I do
when I want to check linearity ..

Art

Hi Art
Yea , totaly agree with you also. I do what you say me , i never think on that , i based on my calculati on . And i put some pictures below.
Like i says i dont have my oscilosco pe here , but i can do some test on low frequency max 50khz. And i saw the problem , " i hope will be that " , like you see in photo
the voltage from PWM don't reach the good values as in my test code. I got maxim 3 levels as you see.
In the begining of the test i has 1000 feed , 400 percent and engine are configure d as 1000. Using TL input , and stable vcc on analog input "1v" set tickle as 1 (if i set 0 , same 3 levels , if i set 1 he burn a small line on the return, if i set 3 he burn continuou sly , to high startup). Ignoring that line burning on return axes was close to more than 3 levels.
Trying on TH ,... no way to burn in any level, only 2 levels 0 and max set in power slider.
Trying with different PWM frequency , almost same result , one more bad than other .
Im a little confused right now.
Can you send me a good GCODE that you use as grayscale test ? Maybe my is not in full range of grayscale . I generated with auggie of course. Just to eliminate that option.
I already order that DAC converter and mos optocuple rs , anyway are nice IC and i can use in the feature on many app.
Thanks Art
Bobby

Hi Bobby:

 Enclosed is a grey scale augment and its photos.

A couple of items..

 The 400% is a feed-rate override, useful if a program Gcode calls for 1000, and you want 4000. Otherwise, leave override at 100% and just type in 4000 as the feedrate, probably more accurate  that way.

2)
     Auggie can only send numbers from 0-100 as power. So when you limit it to 32% by the laser power
in auggie you can get only 32 different PWM levels. This is unfortuna te for high power lasers as it reduces the
resolutio n as you lower the laser power %.   I use an arduino to receive the pwm and allow me to adjust its
% before it goes to the laser. The arduino can subdivide in 100 steps. SO I set laser power to 100%, then
 tell the arduino to adjust down to 20%. The output is then 100 steps from 0 - 20 instead of only the 20
steps Auggie can do by itself. The arduino project is published on this board as well if youd like to make
a similar board. This allows you to override the 0-100 steps the pokeys can do to be 100 steps of any %.
  So this arduino takes in 0-100% pwm from auggie set to 100%, and outputs 0-xx% as set on a lcd
connected to the arduino and sends a new pwm to the laser.

  You can see the project in the auggie topic I think under pwm control.

3)
The faster you can go the better, I typically run at 8000 or 10000mm/min , this will allow you higher power
and thus higher resolutio n in power steps.

  You should see a pretty good grey scale when you sort out the pwm.. Its looking good though..

Art
 

Hi Art
Ahh ok, i got it now, you use the trick to get a good resolutio n. I never work with arduino still i was developer for years on dsPIC products a while ago. I think i have a board here with one microcont roller , i can write a small code for that in a moment . I never think on that . Thanks.
Right now is midnight here , so i need to sleep , but tomorrow i will do some test .
I will let you know.
Bobby

Hi Art
I can't stop myself to go on sleep, i made some fast and small test's.
1: First i connect the PWM to TL input and on analog input on the source i set the voltage on 200mv . I play with some feedrates and here we go , some result arrive .
First on you image and after on my . Laser was able to increase the power. I listen you advice and i put 100% at maxim , and of course the laser itself was limited by input analog vcc.
2: I found only the PIC 16F684 here , and i made a very small code , programed in real time with Pickit3 and i made some adjustmen ts.
Like you see was pointed laser , on same image .
Also PWM set matter in my case in ouggie. If i set to high i get only full power , to low , the annoing noise from low frequency and resonance s around 2khz  :o (probably was source reflectio n on they chinese drivers). Also when than noise come out , the laser remain stuck with fixed power (maxim alowed by analog input )
The picture say everythin g.
Also i think the material matter . That's a regular mdf , i cant find any different here around my city and i didn't has the time to search.
Thanks Art , i will let you know what happen .
Bobby

Much better. I see more steps.

 In my PWM processor I take it in, and measure it based on the 5khz I use. I then have an LCD
display that allows me to pick a %. If I pick 50% on the lcd for example, I will change an incoming
100% to an outgoing 50%.  If the arduino see's a 25% PWM, it puts out a 12.5% ( 50% of incoming).

 This allows 100 steps of any power level set by the arduino as long as Auggie stays on 100%.

( Actually, do not go above 99% as i seem to have a bug at 100% that I am tracking down, it may
be in my arduino code but I need to be set to 99% in Auggie on my system for it all to work.
Now if I run a grey scale at 100%, I can set my LCD to 10% and get 0-10% power in 100 steps. )

Art

Hello everyone.
I was a little busy but now i have some free time again to play .
So , I figure out everythin g about feedrate , jerk limits and other stuff.
About my laser power , for the moment i programme d a dsPIC to deal with my PWM , I give up the idea to control the laser over analog input ,
and i use TH input and adjustabl e analog input . Like that i have 100 scale control and i notice if i convert the frequency to low frequency pulses
like 400Hz , the result are different , with fast speed on en my laser.
I attach below, the picture have some missing lines and that because i don't have the compresse d air installed and the smoke keep gluing on my laser nose.
That is not a problem now.I will try for sure on analog input after my order with DAC converter will arrive , next week probably.
That's it for now.
Thanks
Bobby

Nice work Bobby, you are making excellent progress and I look forward to following your thread.

Tweakie.

Thank you Tweakie , i remember you has the first one who give me the advice about laser engrave.
Yesterday arrive my order with DAC and some optocoupl ers. The DAC working perfect (at least measured , not tested on laser) and let me to adjust the min-max voltage level from 0 - 100 PWM.
That's very useful for different materials and operation s.
Still, connected to my stupid laser source the output become at maxim according with my reference set on 90% PWM. I think i will use an OP to follow the voltage with high current. Also like that i will be sure my input laser source will stay at 0 point all time.
And i manage to tune my motors how Art explain me.
https://youtu.be/a3QQo0dvWFU (https://youtu.be/a3QQo0dvWFU)
That's for now.
Bobby

Very nice. :)

 It looks like your coming along well. Let us know how the regulatio n circuit works out.
The photos are showing nice progress.

Art

Yes and no. First of all i was needed to clear some things. One of them was to see linear on what analog voltage my source will delivery maxim power.
So surprise , surprise, on 2.68V input i get 25ma, on my Fluke , so was very calibrate d measureme nt.
My first test with what i buy , was completel y fail. Not because analog device is not good , because Bobby was a idiot ,
order in hurry and didn't read entire PDF. At least i made a good choice on optocoupl er
https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/598737/CEL/PS9151.html (https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/598737/CEL/PS9151.html)
The PWM to DAC converter was fail , because dont let me to control the VCC in full scale reference by REF pin.
https://tz.infinite-electronic.hk/datasheet/73-LTC2644IMS-L10-TRPBF.pdf (https://tz.infinite-electronic.hk/datasheet/73-LTC2644IMS-L10-TRPBF.pdf)
Whatever soon my stupid source has that residual voltage input (the chinese creator let her like that , is written in PDF) i was force to deal with that.
So next help me the optpcoupl er a log potentiom eter and the most loved OP LM324 .
Now i can deal in full PWM range on any level. We will se if the laser respond in the same way >
Bobby

I forgot to say , the small potentiom eter in the picture , is used to set the max power of laser , is conected to the external one (have 20 micro steps on full jog).
Now i thinking what simple was to use a pre-amplifier IC controlle d by voltage . Ahh , but is ok like that , i will test later .
Bobby

Ill be intereste d in hearing how the linear input affects output..

Art

Yes , i will made some test's tonight , to see how that work properly.
I have a question , i try to find a good answer but , i didn't found any.
My lens are ZnSe 20mm 50.8 focus , and i think it is on middle scale , i mean is not perfect for engrave also not perfect for cutting.
In my head is like , shorter focus length = engraving and longer focus length = cutting .
I have right ? Because i found on my lens , don't have a perfect fixed point , i mean can be tolerated 2-3mm ( i didn't see the proper differenc e between that interval , the tiny point remain the same)
Thanks  :)
Bobby

Bobby:

   Your right but situation s vary widely.  A short focal lens ..say 25-50mm
has a very hot tip and very shallow depth of heat. As it gets longer focus
the heat lessens but goes deeper.

  I think of it as a needle being heated. In short focus the center of the needle glows
white hot for maybe 1mm on either side of center. As focus distance increases the length
of the glowing part of the needle increases, but its the same amount of heat
so it doesnt glow as much..

  As to which you need.. depends.

 To cut thin pieces a 50mm is great. To cut thick pieces its nice to have a 3" or even 4"
Some materials help you on their own. Acrylic as it burns creates a waveguide for the
radiation and cuts deeper than the focus can really account for. Wood wont do that.

 My main laser has a 3" on it and cuts great. It will also engrave up to .25" deep or so
for 3d engraving . My Galvo laser has a focus lens 265mm long ( very long) but can 3d
engrave to at least 1" or more in depth. (Though it cuts my 50 watt to 20watt or so equiv at
the surface. )

  So when it comes to focus, I like to have a short ( 50 or so) and a long( 75 - 100) for
3d engraving . Normal engraving like a photo can be done with pretty much any focus
length with simple adjustmen t of power and speed. Highest res though is in theory
with the shortest focal length as the tip dot is smallest.

  This is all if your picky.. Ive found almost any focus can do almost any job
but with varying quality of output.

 
Art


 

Yea , so i will buy the most long i will get , just to test some differenc es . On that lens i have the point on simple 10ms shoot at some low power to pass trough paper , is just pass trough but almost invisible in one focus point , i need a magnifier to see the hole, so i think is good for engraving .
Now about my linear vcc circuit , it works realy great , more nice than i expect
The "magic" is done by optocoupl er , he work so nice , https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/598737/CEL/PS9151.html (https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/598737/CEL/PS9151.html) the operation al i use to filter , voltage folower and to adjust the power , is in full range , i let auggie at 100% power, is so nice to have now so many option to adjust . I was afraid my laser is to powerful to engrave , but was definetly my fault. My first try " just import a photo and generate " no any filter or any adjustmen t's , and still is decent on that shit material.
I have another question , i buy here a piece of plexiglas , but i think is not acrylic , because i try to cut him and on almost 80% power , he don't pass trough more than 1mm , he just melt him and very bad cut after 3 passes (with or without air assist don't matter on different pressure) . Maybe he's not IR absorbant ? I don't know , i didn't try on other . Is what i found here in France in one storage.
Bobby

//~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ edit later ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ahh , and now i notice that raster on the end of black region , i forgot to turn more higher frequency on auggie , lol.  Roll Eyes
Remain me on 300Hz on my last test before to change the interface , i rise up to 10k . I will see next how that will work
Thanks for now, i keep testing , i will try on glass and mirror soon.
Bobby

Hi:

 >>Maybe he's not IR absorbant ?

 Yeah, some materials look like acrylic, but dont cut at all.. Beware their smoke..

Art

Hi Art
Yea i figure out that .
What about that material PMMA, is that acrylic ? They say are acrylic but they have a "special" way to spell the words .
https://www.plaqueplexiglass.com/perspex-chilli-red-frost-s2-4t50/ (https://www.plaqueplexiglass.com/perspex-chilli-red-frost-s2-4t50/)
I made some test on glass , what i can say , working very well .
And.... on 3D engrave , wow , what i can say , working realy well , a realy nice texture .
You will notice the great job on last pass , if they are more than 3 .
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby:

  To truly amaze yourself, google for "3d grayscale". The results from those are most impressiv e
and Auggie will make a multipass 3d object from them. Its interesti ng to see the depth linearity
when doing such an object.
  Looks like you well on your way. Congratul ations.

Art

Hi.
Not that fast Art , not that fast > Is true , on engraving i try almost everythin g , and day by day , gett'in better .
 I try on glass, back of the mirror , working realy nice , almost all materials i've get.
The problem now is of cutting that's materials .
I try some shapes , and on circles was realy strange .
I try to made the DXP file in Corel Draw , no way to can group all objects > No skills in that type of programs.
After i try in inkscape , create DXF and import in vexx to convert to GCODE> then , on lines work but on circles , no way ,
the laser don't even shoot , only on the big circle i draw,  but interrupt ed line .
I put the file below , what program i should use and what is the best option ?
Thanks

Hi Bobby:

  Try this..

1) I Imported the DXF into Vexx using DXF Import.
2) Select all objects by drawing a selection box around them, then selected Edit/Group
3) Press FastGCode Button. Unlselect the feedrate and Z options for laser.
4) File generated as attached.

   When you run such a file, you have to manually do the M3 to enable the laser before
running the file. The circles imported from the DXF as line segments, not circles,
though you coudl use Vexx to convert them to circles by selecting them individua lly and
using the convert to arcs button. Then group for Gcode output..

  I ran the test file and it runs OK here, make sure you enter a feedarate high enough..

Couple notes.

   All th epevisou work you ide was photo work, Jerk settings may not affect such
work badly. The real test of Jerk Settings is in this type of file. The speed the circles
will achieve is a mixture of requested feedrate, and Jerk from the radius of the
circles. If you find they wont run fast as you wish, raise your JerkLimit substanti ally
and find the sweet spot where it runs fast enough , but not too fast.

Art

Hi Art
Yes , i figure out that .
Yes , that i notice , on big circle i saw the interrupt ed power , so i figure out are not a continuou s arc , just small segments.
And on the small circles laser dont even shoot. I will made more test's.

My feedrate was on maxim is writed in config. 12000 , run ok now when laser move without burn . But when i decrease the percent , i saw the power will drop considera bly
//~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have a question . I open the Gearotic software for curiosity , and i saw there on image processin g , is the same AUGS used in Auggie to generate the code but not on same size and less options.
It is possible to have the option to can made that to run also on full screen ? That should very useful , on small screen you can not realy see what truly happen with photo.
Thanks
Bobby

Hi
This night made me crazy , I can not rid off on that stupid ellipse. Engraving working fine , i can do almost everythin g
i want .
The problem is on cutting. and is not about the power, i have a lot for what i try , is about my settings that for sure
First , i try all the speed and mixed , also i figure out what "jerk" do, i hope  :-[
(i didn't figure out what mean , look ahead , and radius settings)
So, If i made one shape , as square and i set some power speed , feed for that , working perfect . How i wish .
If i made a circle, also working. The problem is on different size of circles. On small ones , he don't even burn
also on that circle he like just stop for some ms and made a short gap without burn.
I made a bunch of test's on paper , just above to pass trough , and i figure out , soon the curve going small power decrease radical.
Can be the problem because the motors don't have any reduction rate, Are directly connected on X and Y .
That can be a problem ? They have a lot of power , that why i didn't mount any reduction well.
I can run so fast to almost break my axes , and don't even get on half on load current on motors .
I'm totaly lost now. I give up and go on sleep to clean my head
I put some photo below.
https://youtu.be/csM47s0ysK4 (https://youtu.be/csM47s0ysK4)
Thanks

Hi Bobby,

Looking at your video it appears that you have a problem with your laser triggerin g circuit. It seems to be triggerin g late rather than at the exact moment of axis movement and it also appears to drop-out during axis movement.

Tweakie.

Yes i thinking on that too ' but on engrave no any problem at all. Also the problem seem's to be on motors tuning.
Because if i try on double size circle or ellipse, no any problem at all.
That is only at small pieces i try to cut , below 2 cm .
Trigger circuit i made is no way to have any uS delay ( and on that speed even mS don't affect the trigger ), i don't even use an integrato r for that ,
the internal capacitan ce of source and wires are enough to have fine analog input. I use a good OP and a MOS optocuple r.
Right now i don't even know where to start to debug , obviously no any experienc e with that  in the past.
I will made more test from 0 . Also ,  maybe trying to change the driver parameter's of the motors ?  ;D
Thanks

If you .zip and post a copy of the Gcode which exhibits the problem (shown in your video) then I will run it here and at least rule out one possible cause.

Tweakie.

I try to edit my post , you already answer . :D
 EDIT later :
If i try to set the power very accurate , now i can do it on one single shape and no smaller than 2 cm . I can set to cut a paper without even to pass below ( cut just the paper and he didn't smoke , just cut)
If you notice in video , is a ellipse , but is 3 cm piece . If i draw the second one half of the size and i try to cut , the result will be like in my first video you watch.
I made a small vid to see what happen . To say simply , more smaller than 2 cm the piece will be , more inconsist ent the power will be and also , if i mixt different shapes on different sizes
the power will be a mess .
https://youtu.be/U8SnTyCUAt0 (https://youtu.be/U8SnTyCUAt0)

And the code  is simply made by " vexx " . Nothing special , you can download what Art post some post below ( i'm at work , not home now  ::) )
Also if i try to download and run the code he attach , tle laser will burn hard the big circle and on small ones , dont even shoot.
I think my problem is acc and velocity setting .

Thanks again

Hi Bobby:

  I can see a problem or two in your tests..

All your boxes show on takeoff the laser isn't shooting at the start..

This may explain small circles as they never get up to speed. So a couple things to discuss.. .

First, as the laser takes off on a move, the formula for power internall y is

  max( minpwmset ting , (ActualSpe ed / Feedrate) * power )

  So in the config, the minPWM sets the startup cutting power as the axis
starts to move if the axis is so slow the power computed is less than minPWM.
 SO to set this approxima tely correct, make a square
in gcode. Cut it as you have and if there is no burn at the start of each
corner increase the setting Planner/MinPWM until you see each corner
has been cut. Set you feedrate so your table actually hits it in the velocity DRO,
(or close anyway, it doesnt have to be perfect.. but if you see 1589 is the fastest
it goes, set the feedrate to 1600 or so. )

   The second problem is that feedrate and jerk are related. Jerk is defined
as the amount of mechanica l jerk the machine can do, or how much jerk
occurs during a move.  As its lowered, the axis will move slower. As its raised,
the axis will move faster.If this is too low, you will not be able to move
fast enough on small segment programs. Another considera tion is
look ahead. If a circle is made of hundreds of Gcode lines, the program
can only see ahead by the setting of Lookahead . Change this to
300 or so and it can see and thus plan for higher speeds.

 If you run a program without laser on, see what max feedrate is achived in
that small circle , the math is that a small circle may never hit the feedrate
you desire, so power will never hit it as well. For example, if your feedrate
is set to 5000, and you have 2 circles, one large and one very small.

  The feedrate in the large may hit 4000 ( for example) but the small
circle may only hie 1000. If so , the power of the small circle will be 1/4th
the power of the large. In this case the feedrate for the program should
be set to 1000. (Or a feedrate for the small circle of 1000 and for the large
4000.)

  Jerk in a circle is computed as a function of its radius. The larger the
radius and mathemati cally the smaller the resultant jerk. Smaller circles
have larger jerk.


  So I would first look to the square and adjust the minPWM to make it
start that corner with power high enough to burn. If you turn off
DistCorre ction ( button on the laser control), you will then get
the set laser power at all times during motion, which can be fine in cutting
but will cut harder when its slow due to planning motion.

  It takes some playing to get this right. Unlike normal CNC where motion
alone is enough to cut, Auggie needs to get the power to be properly proportio nal
to speed, which is why all the power settings.

Let me know how the squares corners come out with adjustmen ts and we'll go
from there. :)

Thx
Art

 

I got home and i start to play again> So i start to read again what Art say me , the entire tunning process .
I change my config from 3200 to 12800 steps , (i put the file below) and do it step by step and..... the result was the same
but at least , i got some knowledge ++  :-\
Anyway , i put below that code how you ask me , but i don't think that matter , the result are the same ,
i try a lot of programs to generate , same result , so..... i think i will keep digging  :(
Big square test as Art suggested
https://youtu.be/tSRGY6CA1iI (https://youtu.be/tSRGY6CA1iI)
and movig test for tunning max speed and accelerat ion
https://youtu.be/2qOZfn9ruWk (https://youtu.be/2qOZfn9ruWk)

Thanks

Yes , i attach some files in my previous post , we write in same time  :D (can see my test notes in that .txt)
So , i made the test how you say .
On beginning was the same , after i rise "jerk" to 6000000 (i was annoyed in that moment) and surprisel y , he cut nice the square .
?? How much i can rise the jerk ? Exist a limit value for ?
Also i put min PWM at 20% , i have second power control at analog on min/max power and i set the power just to barely cut the paper.
I notice , the tool hit almost all time the feed set , excluding that small ellipse when decrease the power.
I put on max CV radius 0.10 (what is hes effect ?) i didn't notice any diff.
https://youtu.be/LU0qrUX1Pxw (https://youtu.be/LU0qrUX1Pxw)

//~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
AND not at least , today i find out you are the creator of Mach 3 , man , a awesome work realy , i never used but , every time i look at one video about
machining , that Mach 3 remain in my mind. Again my intuition didn't fail . I have such a big respect for you .

Thanks for everythin g you do for as
Bobby

Hi Bobby:

  Jerk can be a large number. I sometimes use 1000000 and sometimes 50,000,000,
depends on what Im doing and how it reacts. Setting Jerk very high basically reduces
smoothing, but some systems dont need smoothing so a high jerk is fine. The limit is
in the billions I think..

  That last video looked much better. If your doing an ellipse there are many small moves in
some code, so make sure your look ahead is high.. maybe 400 - 500. This helps the planner get
up to speed. Small circles calculate jerk a bit different ly as they have to take radial vector
pressures into account. Its all a balance, but I think your getting there, the last video showed
your very close to what you need. Play around with jerk and feedrates and eventuall y it will
sink in how they affect each other.

Thx
Art

Hi Bobby,

Your last video shows great improveme nt so you are definitel y heading in the right direction .

Tweakie.

Hi ..
Thanks everyone for help. I figure out what " jerk " and other variable do . I manage to have constant power on
cutting almost on any shape i made . Now trying to script a "air button " for air assist , i found that library was already created
by @Ya-Nvr-No , and of course did't work , so . I start to look on you videos on youtube , and trying to see where are located all
variable in the system , i found some variable (including " AirAssist " ) variable , is duplicate in the my system.
That affect some how the Auggie funtional ity or is just a visual bug ?
I put below a screensho t of that
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby:

  Its probably just a system bug displayin g it twice.

 Are you trying to make a Gcode for the air assist or a button to
trigger an output?

Art

Hi Art
Yes. That i try a button to trigger the secon relay , as laser power button do
 , but i saw the library was already created , so i try to use it ,
but unfortuna tely without success .
Is not realy a big deal , but even is a fridge motor turned as compresso r , he made some noise ,
and in time of "study " to turn off without move from my PC .Also i figure out , the air pressure
change total'y the final result , depend of material . I mount a regulator from " argon tig welder "
I'm not on my native home right now to made some real test's but i assume , if i use " argon " instead of air ,
cutting on wood will be better . I think ,
 thanks
Bobby

Hi Art
Yea , probably . Yesterday i found a annoing bug , than force you to close auggie only with
CTRL+shift+ESC and kill the process , otherwise you can't get away of that.
Also i try to reproduce the bug , and finaly i found how that was created ( focused on my work i forgot what i do to
get that bug, i spend half of hour to find the way to recreate the bug )
I don't know , to post here , or create a new topic with "Auggie bugs" ?
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby:

 Post it under Auggie Bugs and Ill see if it can be fixed up. It is possible in Auggie to script yourself to
a death, it can be hard to stop some script situation s where a script calls itself for example.. .

Art

You talk about recursion script without exit condition ?
No , i didn't touch auggie scripts , yet , i need more to learn .
I will post the bug soon i will get home , i made some screensho t's about.
Thanks
Bobby

Hello everyone
I have some " stupid " questions .  :-\
Of course are releated at AUGS module used for generated the code for engrave .
First of all english is not my native , i have double nationali ty of my parents , english is fourth language necesary to get it work,
so  i apologise for my gramma .
I figure out how to properly set my speed / power / for engrave , i modify totaly my source and all good, but.
I did't get some "basic" knowledge about AUGS module .

1: I calculate d by size , on my photo , the pixel resolutio n , according with optimal shooting time ,speed and beam size
and on some picture after i generate the code auggie say me error and wont display after i load the code .
Exist some size limit , or just extension fault ? Many time i change from png to jpg and work , keeping resolutio n , but not all time
That confuse me a little

2: I think " StepOver " is represent the beam size , and is how much one axe will step to scale the image
That's correct ?

3: I don't get it what "ramp " does , i try different from 1 to 500 and , but i think is strict about image size , or not ?
I try to zoom after auggie generate , and i don't see to much differenc e , actualy i don't see at all on any value .

4: It is the picture showed in auggie panel after load the code , the real one loaded  from code ? Because i try different resolutio ns
and after zoom in i didn't seen any effect , is like the imagine remain at very poor resolutio n .

Thanks , I will put pictures soon i will get better .
And how Art advice me , i learn some standard GCODE command , and , yea , is more easy , after some time , is like you brain do it without think about
you just know what will happen .
Thanks for now
Bobby

Hi Bobby:

  Glad to hear your getting more experienc e.. Here are some thoughts. .

>>>>1: I calculate d by size , on my photo , the pixel resolutio n , according with optimal shooting time ,speed and beam size
and on some picture after i generate the code auggie say me error and wont display after i load the code .
Exist some size limit , or just extension fault ? Many time i change from png to jpg and work , keeping resolutio n , but not all time
That confuse me a little

    You can in theory load any resolutio n image, though I have had memory problems with huge ones. You shouldnt have
to calculate any optimal timing for a photo, just the output size in mm or inches.. whatever you use. You do need
to make sure you change those two DRO's ( XSize and YSize) to make it do output. Some images may cause trouble,
the image importer may screw up on some image types as they can vary in specifica tion.


>>2: I think " StepOver " is represent the beam size , and is how much one axe will step to scale the image
That's correct ?

  Not really.. though you can set it to the beam width, what it does is divide the Y dimension by that amount of passes
so each pass moves forward by "StepOver" amount. On some materials an overlap is good, on some youd want none.
 As you lower the stepover, the cut time will increase. 

>>
3: I don't get it what "ramp " does , i try different from 1 to 500 and , but i think is strict about image size , or not ?
I try to zoom after auggie generate , and i don't see to much differenc e , actualy i don't see at all on any value .

   Ramp sets how far away from the photo the X path starts and ends. It is good for quality to have the axis up to speed
on each pass before it starts to cut. So if Ramp is 1" , then it will start and end 1" before and after the photo. This ensures
a constant speed while photo engraving . In truth , Auggie will burn only when in the photo box so one could do spirals or
random lines and still burn the photo, so ramping is just a way of ensuring constant speed and power capabilit y.

>>
4: It is the picture showed in auggie panel after load the code , the real one loaded  from code ? Because i try different resolutio ns
and after zoom in i didn't seen any effect , is like the imagine remain at very poor resolutio n .

  The photo that is shown is the interpola ted data from the image. It is what the GCode will see. If the end cut has a resolutio n
of 10 inches in the X direction , for example, but the photo has only  100 pixels in the X, the photo shown will look low resolutio n.

Hope this helps,
Art

 


Thanks , I will put pictures soon i will get better .
And how Art advice me , i learn some standard GCODE command , and , yea , is more easy , after some time , is like you brain do it without think about
you just know what will happen .
Thanks for now
Bobby

Hi Art , hello anyone
Of course helps , any advice is good in any way >
But now , realy , realy confuse me , i don't say is not good , i say just confuse me . So i explain .
The picture below was taken from other picture on paper , very old with very bad resolutio n . Because that count of course .
Soon , i modify my source with that DAC converter , everythin g is just fine , i can control the treshold between two levels
on any power level i want .
So , before to buy that chip , i try all setting blindly (no oscilosco pe here) and i notice , i can have full gray scale at 360Hz PWM sett
0.0027 in plan config . So , now i say to give a try , just for fun , and i saw a good result on paper , almost full scale .
Second thing , all photos now , i just apply a mask layer between 0-100 , grayscale , anyway i dont think pokeys will recognise 254 .
Now, the interesti ng thing was, i set to 360Hz, the last set remain in my memory and i start . I notice was good on that very very bad rez photo.
After , i set the power and speed to cut the photo , and in mistake i forgot to change the PWM to high at 5Khz .
Amazing , with 360 pulses , the cut was the same , BUT... the important thing , i dont see the burning sign where i cut . Is just WHITE.
I just can not explain that . I ususly set the power when i cut with 5KHz at limit to pass though playwood , just to avoid unnecesar y power
and burning . But always the edges was black , normaly . And after with much less power , obviously we cant compare 5000 with 560 , i got very clean cut
the same and this time just no any sign of burn . I just was close to look behind because even smoke almost missing there and , on my mA-meter
the current did't pass 4 mA.
I think is something about the energy inside the tube , is released more agressive , in pulses and in good timing , is like is the time to wait the energy to gain
again inside. For that reason i will start a little study about laser . Because just i dont get it , but is very good
The smoke just missing . Not totaly but not like usualy , even on paper is noticeabl e on cutting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0-BY1WZFP0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0-BY1WZFP0)

Thanks
Bobby

Hi:

   I too find the laser are non-linear in many ways. Also the materials are nonlinear in their responce
to IR radiation . So its really a matter of experienc e , speed and power. The PWM for RF lasers is
typically about 5Khz, which is why its the default, but its VERY possible that a HV power supply may
need lower or higher PWM.. I have no experienc e with that yet, just RF lasers ( Synrads).

   I have doen many 3d engraving s with no burn marks at all in the wood, and many with terribhle
burn marks. I typically increase speed and power as much as I can as I find max power at the right
speed in wood leaves the least burn, it kinda evaporate s the wood rather than burns it..

Art

Hello everyone .
I notice something . As example you cut something and you get an error (my case after i grounded everythin g i get random error only on RJ45 cable) , the program will stop and Estop disengage d > still after you try to run , you need to activate M3 .
In that case you need to remember and go on that line or some below. It is possible to create a button to run M3 on one click ?
To don't change to MDI to run M3
Probably is ...
The second question , i've seen , Pokeys support some temperatu re sensors . Is possible to create a small display (with scripts) to
see the temperatu re of cooling liquid ? 
Also about that subject , i read some controver sed opinion " what is better for cooling " , Most of the peoples say water is better ,
my opinion , so many engineer's study what is best for cooling and i think , only a professio nal guy will know the answer .
In any case , " as some peoples says based on home researche s with limited knowledge  " water is better , i don't think that's right .
I put below what i use , " sry is in french but here everythin g is like that , even imported product's they change the label  :-\ "
The main reason i chose special product for cooling is " no oxidation and no froze "

Hi:

   I cant speak to cooling, my lasers are air cooled, but when I did use water, I just added some car windshiel d antifreez e to it.

As to the m3, there is no button set, but it is possible to make a script button to activate an M3. Im just so used to clicking on MDI
where I have an M3 at the top, and I do a single line execute on it, then swap back to code screen, that I never got around to
adding a button to my screen. You only need to find a spot for a button, name it something like MyM3Calle r, and then add a script
to your libraries called MyM3Calle r(state) and in that script call a Engine.GC ode("M3"); Add another to turn it off. I dont advise a
toggle button unless you wish to add some logic to figure out if the m3 is on or off before deciding to turn it off or on..

Art
 

Hi everyone
After a lot of fails , i manage to get what is wrong on my laser power. Take it away the source problems
i notice , my laser is to powerful on minim power . How i figure out ? I explain.
I made a black square at 100x100mm and i start to engrave . During engrave i try to adjust manual the power ,
and i notice , i can get only 10% grey and after fine adjust jump instead to 100% (black) ;
So i start to find a solution , and better was to calsulate the speed travel , frequency of PWM and duration pulse
on that speed. Finaly i was impress myself , the good result start to arrive .
I put some photos below. I can engrave like that almost like multipass engrave at 1mm deep with very good result when
you don't look face to face to the picture.
https://youtu.be/kKC0AN3QBiM (https://youtu.be/kKC0AN3QBiM)

Thanks
Bobby

Excellent work BobbyW - you have mastered the laser beast  ;)

Tweakie.

Thanks Tweakie . To be honest you get a lot of credit for that , you say to me first about Pokeys , Auggie , Art and rest of
nice peoples here . I want to thanks everyone who give me an advice and correct me when i do mistakes.
Thanks to everyone . Anyway now become more seriously , i got more and more attracted by laser.
I want to build my own RF tube right now. I collect some informati on about those RF lasers and ... why not
what i can lose , some money , nahh knowledge arrive from try and mistakes .
I will start next month , now i'm block in France because of that " stupid and imaginary corrona virus"
i don't believe that anyway .
I will post the news here
Bobby

Bobby:

   You have showed how much perserver ance is important . Not giving up leads to the best results
and youve shown that very well. Nice work!. When I was developin g Mach3, I had thousands of
blue screens of death before I finally managed to take over Windows to make a timer work my way.
   It took 6 months to prove to myself that I could do that when pretty much everyone said it
couldnt be done. Sometimes you have to go with faith in your abilities and just persevere . It
doesnt always pay off, but when it does it is very gratifyin g. Be gratified, your photos look as
professio nal as any Ive seen.

  Its been very nice watching your progress to the point where you've mastered both
Auggie and your laser. Im impressed .

Art

Thanks for you kind words . I was off a while bussy with my house
I was surpised when i comeback to laser, i change the laser room and after some days i try to engrave a small photo 80x94mm and a error pop out "exasperat ion code " xxxx
dont ask me the error number because i forgot until next day . Single way to pass that error was to change the size at 81x96mm or other size and work fine . After some hours i try to reproduce that error
but was impossibl e , no error at all. No ideea what was about .
I will post some pictures , work better and better .
Thanks again to everyone

Yeah, those codes are appropria tely named. They drive me nuts at times..

(Nice work)

Art

Thanks ... well like i says , i'm on again playing with my laser and i figure out something strange and very important in my opinion.
When i was in France i buy some good quality playwood from Germany so the photos engrave ok . Some days before i start to engrave one photo , a normal resolutio n like 1200x1600 px and
surprise , the laser even i increase the power more than i was need before for same type of dimension , 140x210mm refuse to made the dark brown color on wood .
Literaly he cut deep almost 1mm and no way to get even brown , i got something like very light brown . I got piss off and i start to made a ,mess tru' my polywood to found that piece of same type of material .
No way to find , but i'm ordonated in my way and usualy i memorise everythin g i made for any photo i engrave . I set my laser identical , i take one good succeded photo and i engrave same code on the back of that photo .
Same story , the laser cut but dont burn .......  ??? ???
Well ... doing the time back in my memory i remember , when i was in France the polywood has always some high moisture because humidity was very high in my town . Moving back in Romania , humidity is normal here
maybe a little dry if don't rain for a while . And.. i take one ordinary polywood , a brush with water on both sides , a thin layer , i let to dry couple of minute and i start engrave .
In that moment the dark brown almost black coming on the wood.
In conclusio n , if polywood dont have hight moisture , the full white-brown scale is impossibl e .

Out of toppic ... what gcode comand use Auggie to change the power of a laser 0-100 ?
I found a extension for inkscape , i modify the code and now work perfect with auggie but wont change the power level . I need to do manualy anytime .. no clue :-\

Some work below
I forgot to say .. the image was very low resolutio n , only 540px and 44kb
Thanks
Bobby

Hi:

 Good to know about th emoistur elevel..t hx


For power, just use a spindle command, like S100 for 100%, and S50 for 50%..

Art

Well .. that i try in first case , but without succes , i try to research . No way to control power during the GCODE. Also i try in single MDi ,
same result , the power will not modify ,only manualy on input box or slider.
Also today i want to add a button on screen for one realy , and no way to made it to work.
I start watching you tutorial here https://youtu.be/AtnLlfho5BU (https://youtu.be/AtnLlfho5BU) , but no way to see the code for other buttons like i see in you vid.
So .. i anyway i was needed two buttons so i say to made a small screen with two or more buttons and when i try to destroy screen for new one
i receive two different errors everytime when i want to destroy screen .
I even update the auggie on last version i found on website but same result .
I put some screensho ot below .
 The system is win7 x64 and i will dont change for 10 or whatever , i work hard to downgrade the bios to bypass the win7  :(
thanks

Edit: ups , upload the wrong screensho t  :-\
Bobby

Hello .
I was very busy with my house and i'm back now. So.. I figure out what was wrong with all error mesages,.
well ... i didn't know to made some functions or edit others you need to have pokeys attached.
Also need to check back the library .  :( Now i know.

About power and "S" comand . No way to set the power in GCODE. Definetly is something wrong with my Auggie
or i'm just stupid  :-\ . The rest of Auggie work perfectly , only if i want to run different poers comanded in GCODE
don't work
Also don't work in a single or multi MDI.
I attach below a simple circle shape to test in multi MDI
Any sugestion is apreciate d
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby:

  Is the override button under the laser power checked.  If so, it will ignore Gcode power
commands. This allows me to override power without Gcode in the program switching it
back.

Art

Hi Art . Is almost morning here and no clue about that power set with "S" parameter .
I dont have "override button " for laser on my panel .
I even try with different PC and i managed to mess up pokeys config and all of , soon i connect other PC.
Right now Auggie work realy perfect , no any issue only that power set in GCODE.
Well.. now i'm feel realy stupid. All the time simple things mess me up :(
Thanks . i will keep digging.
Bobby

Bobby:

  Sorry about that, I was thinking of feedrate.

 It wont work with S words controlli ng the laser unless you change the script in the
LaserSpin dleContro l library. You need to make the speed function look like this..

global SpindleSp eed = function( speed )
{
   /*power is automatic in laser spindle mode..
     no need to specify, in laser mode, spindle
     power is a function of augmentat ion */
     print(" Set Max Laser Power" , speed);
     GlobalSet( "LaserMaxP ower" ,speed);
 
};   

   this will change the slider value to the S word value and burn at that power. There is no override for this
though unless you add some sort of logic to that call to override S words. You will see the slider change
position on each S word in the GCode with this set this way.

Art

Hi Art
Yea , yea i should figure out is something missing in spindle library because
i use to control the power like in code posted in picture below.
But was annoing to edit all the code manualy or to create little program to insert automatic aly the code below the S# parameter .
Well... the thing mess me up was the lack of knowledge . I read several section in the forum and in some posts i read
some of GCODE parameter s are already included in AUGGIE itself inside of software not in external scripts .
And in my head became the ideea to dont create a conflict if is already defined in program.
Exist somewhere a doc' about all variables used in software and parameter s of all of them ?
Anyway , you save me Art , that S# issue became annoing because remain stick on my brain   ;D
So.. i think now i can increase my laser knowledge until 11.363%
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby:

  Awesome, that too will work. By placing it into the library you just allow it to
automatic ally translate an S word to a GlobalSet . That you figured that out is
proof your doing very well with it. Mixing script with Gcode is a pretty powerful
way to do almost anything.
 
Thanks
Art
 

Hi Art .
You have right with that .
One of my old problem was to engrave on some small objects a part of them surface . I noticed is very hard to align the perfect possition on that object . Actualy tou need to made some tricks to find the perfect coordonat es to engrave on some spots.
So i was thinking to create a extension in Inkscape to be able to comunicat e with a " possition sensor camera " and the coordonat ed and picture to be transfere d in Inkscape with some filters and in that way can be able to
put the engrave part in the perfect spot possition .
So i start with that and the next [part in my ideea is to GCODE to be created as reference of that object coordonat es.
Until now i was manage to create the perfect reference of object dimmensio n and to be able to have the perfect distance from X home to that object .
Still i have some problems with Y axis but i will figure out at the end.
The error of object size is maximum 200u and the same for X axis (senzor limits), but 0.2mm is not a problem anymore .
Doing that by hand definetly is more big error. That dont bother me now.
I put below some vids. The sensor is a VISOR vision sensor A10.
https://youtu.be/Iw03eUHwro8 (https://youtu.be/Iw03eUHwro8)
https://youtu.be/as9MhaYxpaE (https://youtu.be/as9MhaYxpaE)

And some pic below . Thanks
Bobby

Well , finaly first test after i fix Y issue . For some reason GCODE take value as px on Y and
mm on X . Weird but i found the issue . Was in senzor config.
https://youtu.be/PUGZnfOyaHE (https://youtu.be/PUGZnfOyaHE)

And the sensor i use it for
https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/4top-assets/media/Sensopart/Manual/sensopart_manual_v10_v20_def.pdf (https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/4top-assets/media/Sensopart/Manual/sensopart_manual_v10_v20_def.pdf)

Now will be a problem with Z , because soon i will mode the table the entire calibrati on will be gone .
I need to find a way to made a offset for Z and also that will be tight in connectio n of size of object and XY reference .
Thanks
Bobby

Hi everyone .
During time i keep playing with Auggie on different materials different resolutio ns
and of course different type of pictures how mucth the differenc e will do
a simple picture and one already made in BW and limit 100 in gray scale.
All good but sometimes after i generate with AUGS i get blank screen
like all the code missing in "aug" file but if you look is there .And i figure out
if in mistake you have double " . " (don't know the term in english) in the photo name
like " photo_1.3 00x300.jp g " the "tap" file will be ok but Auggie will don't recognize the
"aug" file because on tap file the program will remove automatic aly the " . " but
the "aug"file will remain the same /
I hope will help someone
Keep playing
Bobby

Bobby:

 Thx for that note.. I will make a note to change the "." search to "from the start" to "from the end" in the code next
time Im in there. Good work on noting that...

Thx

Art

Hello everyone and merry christmas
Today i want to engrave a message in to a clock and i get a surprise .
I try to generate a code for engrave and i got a error .
I change the name of photo , i change location , nothing work . I ever made a sys restore
because i didn't turn off my laptop for months , and that error become alive after restart . if you put same dimmensio n on X 230 unit you get an error.
Finaly i figure out changing the size to original photo to 2000 x.. and after it works.
Everyone can try if get the same error ?
I post pelow the original photo and the error.
Thanks
Bobby

Bobby,  I loaded your image into Augs.  Set the output size in X axis to 4" which made the Y Axis size 3.9582".  I set the ramp to 0.5".  Hit generate and got the .aug and .tap files as expected.  Loaded the .tap file and it appears to be all set to run.  I didn't execute the file but it looked all ok to me.

Mark